Oversized windage dial

[Pommy Chris]

Yes definitely would like a couple
Thanks for your reply Chris

All good can you and everyone else email me theshalapa@gmail.com will process orders.
Chris

[Azzopardi]

Can anyone tell me who makes the large windage dials as used by the f open worlds team.
Cheers
Craig

There are good and not so good designs around. At a quick glance, the large knob should tell the coach if you have left or right wind on. This is important when the wind is changing quickly across centreline.

Also, a large knob is ok if you a an accurate reference point on the scope otherwise you can be 1/8 to 3/8 MOA out at the start of the team shoot and quickly loose your way by the end. The 2nd piece (the pointer/telltale) is required to mitigate this risk and it attaches to the scope tube. This second piece is a must if you are shooting under the ‘retro-plotter’ system. From behind, the plotter can see the wind value without asking.

Accuracy is the key.

[Tim N]

Hi Chris
Is there any chance of getting the 1/2 min mark on the other side of the dial for those of us who have our scopes on the correct way?
That’s to say windage turret on the left side
Can the insert go either way in the dial?
Thanks
Tim

[Pommy Chris]

Hi Chris
Is there any chance of getting the 1/2 min mark on the other side of the dial for those of us who have our scopes on the correct way?
That’s to say windage turret on the left side
Can the insert go either way in the dial?
Thanks
Tim

Hi Tim,
Not sure I understand. The inserts for Comp scopes have a step to fit the knob so only fit one way, but step is in the inside of the insert so knob will go on back to front if you want, but insert needs to match the knob.
I coached with the knobs both on the left of me and the right and marks were super clear both side.
Cheers
Chris

[bruce moulds]

2 stets of numbers.
one for left wind and 1 for right wind?
bruce.

[Pommy Chris]

2 stets of numbers.
one for left wind and 1 for right wind?
bruce.

We went the way we did re the markings ie 0-9 as it removes confusion in ranges like Lower Light where you have 10 or more minutes on. Also double lines of numbers in different directions IMO make the knob look busy you look down and need to think. Not hard if you wind one way 3 minutes and you are on 7 to know it is 3 left or 4 and it is 6 the other way is correct. I found coaching these markings are easier as even with a glance down you know where you are there are no other numbers to mix you and very important when shooter finishes there is no confusion which way to wind back to zero. Knobs with 1-5 and 5-1 in my opinion are a danger as you risk knob being would 5 minutes out.
Chris

[bruce moulds]

2 sets, 0 - 9 each way, would be my preference, but each to his own.
bruce.

[Pommy Chris]

2 sets, 0 - 9 each way, would be my preference, but each to his own.
bruce.

Thanks Bruce still getting feedback on this, all is listened too. Molds are a pain to make one option is like the old ones an optional adhesive sticker. Otherwise if enough ask two models. This was done for teams and we decided to make them. Again there is a lot of work to make them so still a labour of love. Want this out there though as some shooters just cant see the knobs it is not just teams.
All products are backed 100 percent.
Chris

[Tim N]

Where can you get the stickers printed?
I’d like to change my comp scope markings

[scott/r]

Where can you get the stickers printed?
I’d like to change my comp scope markings

Any sticker shop worth their front step would be able to print one out for you.
Scott.

[GSells]

Chris , I get so many older guys that can’t see the small markings , asking me where I got mine . So I’m glad you have filled the gap !

[Tim L]

Personally, i don't much like the grub screw clamping idea.
The windage knob, is itself, nothing more than a tube with a grub screw that pushes on the drive shaft of the scope. It works by deforming the tube, using the spring of the tube to maintain the clamping force. There's only 1 grubscrew on the NF Comp, Sightron have 3
If you fit the windage knob with the grub screw of the knob at (or close to) 90 degrees to the scope grub screw, it crushes the tube more and the scope grub screw lets go! Click, click spin, click click. Knob says a minute, scope has half and you'd never know!
If we are putting thought into getting it right, let's get it right rather than cheap.

[Tim L]

Either mold, or machine, the knob to engage in the scolops of the windage knob. Or just 1 scolop.
Secure with an end cap rather than a clamp. Maybe an o ring to eliminate freeplay.
It would need an indexed hole aligning with the scope grub screw.
Fit by removing the original scope cap. Slide the big knob over the scope cap from the scope end and engage the cap scolops, secure with the end cap. Refit the whole assembly to the scope, ensuring wind zero and secure with original grub screw.
A range of stickers to go on the circumference of the knob. These can be indexed to the coaches view point.

Alternatively, mold/machine, cut in half and install 2 screws to clamp, just make sure the clampling direction complements the grub screw, ie is in line with it.

[bruce moulds]

a good coach or shooter should know what is on the wind arm at all times.
the shooter can, and the coach should be writing this down for each shot, in conjunction with some way of recording the condition and strike of shot.
then when that condition returns, you have data to fall back on.
some can do this in their heads, but either way, the recording on paper can be studied later as a way to improve by observing trends.
sounds simple, but only practice can get you there.
the main advantage of the big nob is that a plotter can see it better, being further away.
however you do it, always know what is on the sight.
never think something like "add 2", but "go from 4 to 6".
if a big nob aids this in any way it is a good thing.
bruce.

[Tim L]

a good coach or shooter should know what is on the wind arm at all times.
the shooter can, and the coach should be writing this down for each shot, in conjunction with some way of recording the condition and strike of shot.
then when that condition returns, you have data to fall back on.
some can do this in their heads, but either way, the recording on paper can be studied later as a way to improve by observing trends.
sounds simple, but only practice can get you there.
the main advantage of the big nob is that a plotter can see it better, being further away.
however you do it, always know what is on the sight.
never think something like "add 2", but "go from 4 to 6".
if a big nob aids this in any way it is a good thing.
bruce.

It all depend on how one reads the wind Bruce, how the individuals brain works with the info and what the conditions are doing, how quick and how big the changes are. Differing conditions require differing techniques, not tge ridgid application of something hat worked a few times. You catch the basics, the big knob allows more to be done, in less time with quicker confirmation in most conditions. Great when retro plotting or for far sighted shooters.
IMO Neither coach nor shooter should be taking eyes off the conditions to write notes.
During my best shoot in WA conditions were in constant flux. i had no idea what was on the knob past the 2nd shot. I put 3.5 on, wound another 2 on from that shot, then just watched the mirage and clicked on or off depending what i saw, taking the shot when i could. There was nothing to be gained by knowing what was on the scope because what was being seen did not compute to what was required! 60.6 at 900 took the range.
During the 700 earlier in the day it was a traditional "pick the condition" and I shot with small aim offs for 60.7. I could only do that because i could aim at the middle, on the 900, the aiming mark was just a blob so aiming had to be by using the minute marks to bracket the blob. Winding is essential when doing that because aiming off doesn't work well for windage OR elevation.
All coaches and all shooters need to fill their tool bag so they have the right tool for the job.