Rich4 wrote:At low rates most cutting fluids will work adequately, machining is always a balance between economy and speed, when you’re more focused on accuracy and maintaining very expensive tooling, cutting fluid cost becomes almost immaterial, personally I wouldn’t risk a reamer to an oil which is slightly cheaper
Yep agreed. I do a bit of "agricultural" work and am aiming to do some more precision work so am open to all suggestions on products that are best suited to specific applications.
Matt do you "cut" the Ilocut with anything or just run it neat on the flush system? Does it last or go off? Interesting on the data sheet it says that it's 20% fat. . . . . . Is that what you and Rod do your fish and chips in to shoot so well?
Pete I reckon canola oil might be worth a try from things I need to weld afterwards! Much better than breathing in rocol fumes! Not sure how well it would go on 316 but for aluminium which usually suffers from chips cold welding to the cutting edge it could be a good option.
WD40 is excellent for aluminium machining and great for parting SS too. Metho is very good for aluminium but the fumes are a problem. Ilocut is an excellent product and does not go "off". Old time gunsmiths (even before my time ) used lard. A bit of trivia......I have a .308 reamer that has cut several hundred chambers and is still going strong, so using good cutting oils and driving your reamer correctly is definitely a plus. Keith H.
Rich4 wrote:At low rates most cutting fluids will work adequately, machining is always a balance between economy and speed, when you’re more focused on accuracy and maintaining very expensive tooling, cutting fluid cost becomes almost immaterial, personally I wouldn’t risk a reamer to an oil which is slightly cheaper
Yep agreed. I do a bit of "agricultural" work and am aiming to do some more precision work so am open to all suggestions on products that are best suited to specific applications.
Matt do you "cut" the Ilocut with anything or just run it neat on the flush system? Does it last or go off? Interesting on the data sheet it says that it's 20% fat. . . . . . Is that what you and Rod do your fish and chips in to shoot so well?
Pete I reckon canola oil might be worth a try from things I need to weld afterwards! Much better than breathing in rocol fumes! Not sure how well it would go on 316 but for aluminium which usually suffers from chips cold welding to the cutting edge it could be a good option.
Canola oil is quite good for frying chips!!!! I think it is penny wise and pound foolish to skimp on cutting fluids where expensive chambering reamers are in use.......my 2 cents worth. Keith H.
Just as a interesting side note, I cut a long tuner thread applying Rocol and Sutton venom in series, not fair as the Sutton had the most overhang, however I certainly wouldn’t argue over the difference, for a chamber I tried Rocol again and am split, the finish is possibly better???? However I like the flushing ability of the thinner venom, but I fee Rocol possibly has some resistance to chatter being thicker? Not sure what happened there with the pictures but o well?
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Rich4 wrote:E5F75BC3-4AEC-4FAD-9A74-9C2C684BCF4B.jpegJust as a interesting side note, I cut a long tuner thread applying Rocol and Sutton venom in series, not fair as the Sutton had the most overhang, however I certainly wouldn’t argue over the difference, for a chamber I tried Rocol again and am split, the finish is possibly better???? However I like the flushing ability of the thinner venom, but I fee Rocol possibly has some resistance to chatter being thicker? Not sure what happened there with the pictures but o well?
) used lard. A bit of trivia......I have a .308 reamer that has cut several hundred chambers and is still going strong, so using good cutting oils and driving your reamer correctly is definitely a plus.
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