OzFclass

timothi3197 wrote:Ok this may sound stupid but: will I be able to use my .223 at 300yards still if I fit a 20MOA scope rail from Davies?

Would I be better with a 15 MOA?, I only want to get to 900m

Also does anybody have bullet drop tables for a .223 with the 80 grain AMAX? I have .308 only.- correction I followed your link PB and found it very useful.

How many MOA to a mil and visa a versa?

I have an Omark44


Thanks, Tim

I would not know what my rail angles are, but one has around 23 minutes to the bottom with one scope, zeroed at 300 yards.Same rifle and rail, with different scope, has 43 minutes to bottom.
Looking at my range book, different ranges and days, I have 28 1/4, 29 and a maximum 30 minutes, this is from zero at 300 yards to 1,000 yards.
Mike.

I am using a 25 MOA ramp with my 223R with a 300yd zero with my 8-32x 56 BR scope. I can wind down for 100 yds with it as well.

Ballistic chart on line is here: http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/cgi-bin/jbmtraj_simp-5.0.cgi

Look in the bullet library drop down entry and select a Sierra 223R MatchKing 80gr, its close enough to the Hornady Amax to work well for the calcs.

Thanks Ian,

Kind regards,

Tim

oops sorry forgot to thank you all as well Mike, alan and John, much appreciated Tim

Thanks Gentlemen, I have just gotten my head around MOA and MIL dots- I think

Suffice it to say that yes Mil dots are pretty useless in many ways for target shooting but they do give a good reference point for aiming off and this is how I get 300, 500 and 600 yard zeros for the omark.

For example at 300 yards I aim at the intersection of the crosshairs as one normally would.
At 500 yards I use the second mil dot from the bottom post as my aiming point
At 600 yards I use the point of the post as the aiming mark.

This may sound a little rough but gets me in the V first shot depending on the wind(most times). I would have to add that much learned from TR has to be dropped before scopes make sense(to me anyway).

Tim- a man on a learning curve

timothi3197 wrote:For example at 300 yards I aim at the intersection of the crosshairs as one normally would.
At 500 yards I use the second mil dot from the bottom post as my aiming point
At 600 yards I use the point of the post as the aiming mark.

This may sound a little rough but gets me in the V first shot depending on the wind(most times). I would have to add that much learned from TR has to be dropped before scopes make sense(to me anyway).

....up until that time in the heat of the challenge when you count the wrong dot!

Seriously, very seriously, don't use dots or hash marks to aim off or aim up. Set up so you can crank the scope to the correct elevation for each distance & then learn to set your average wind on the scope & aim off for the twitches on the flags. It is like TR. You do need to record your elevations - you just need to acknowledge that you've been dialling wind arse about for all that time - and that one MOA on a good scope is a real MOA, not .85 MOA.

I have actually been known to shoot at the wrong target before so forgetting which dot to use is a real possibility John. The way you reccommend agrees with advice I have been given by others and once I have the 20MOA rail on I will start dialling for elevation and wind. I am still a beginner so am going slowly one step at a time.

Kind regards and thanks,

Tim