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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:27 pm
by Cameron Mc
AAAH.....the big hammer trick.

Quite easy with the actions I use. They take remington type triggers. So if it's a modern type target action it should have a "trigger hanger" which is held in place by two cap screws. So you make the trigger slot big enough so the trigger will drop out after the 2 screws are removed.

I found a pic of an action with the trigger attached to the trigger hanger.

For the actions with pins, just drill holes so you can knock out the pins.

With a hanger I can remove the trigger in about 60 seconds.

Cameron

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Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:50 pm
by Chopper
Well done, But your barrel just shit it self, and you want to change it, ?, nose clamp ? :wink: , Chop.

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 10:00 pm
by Lynn Otto
Chopper wrote:Well done, But your barrel just shit it self, and you want to change it, ?, nose clamp ? :wink: , Chop.

:D That's why you keep a whole spare rifle in the back of the car...

Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 10:22 pm
by Cameron Mc
Lynn Otto wrote:
Chopper wrote:Well done, But your barrel just shit it self, and you want to change it, ?, nose clamp ? :wink: , Chop.

:D That's why you keep a whole spare rifle in the back of the car...


I like Lynn's idea of a spare rifle. Another excuse to have more guns.

Or :wink:

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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:22 am
by ned kelly
G'day All,
most custom actions, such as the Stolles, Hall, Bat etc have a trigger hanger (adapter) that bolts to the underside of the action, so you can simply unbolt the trigger/hanger assembly from underneath and then swap the trigger easily at the bench/car bonnet without struggling with the whole rifle.

Makes glue-ins a whole lot easier than with a Rem action and the 2 pins :wink:

Cheerio Ned