OzFclass

Josh Cox wrote:Usually after each weekend, or at the end of each day.

Use carby cleaner instead of Hoppes, followed by Boretech Eliminator. Hoppes is not as vigorous on carbon as it could be. The roughness you are feelin is most likely a build up of carbon fouling, ADI powders are prone to hard carbon fouling.
Keith H.

Where can you get the necessary eguipment and Molly and which is the best method of application.

Cheers Tod

Don't know where you can get moly powder. QRA Q store used to carry it (Lyman brand) - still do: http://q-store.com.au/search?type=product&q=moly . I have one of the Lyman Moly accessory packs, but I only ever used it with boron nitrite because I couldn't get the stuff to stick any other way.

I apply moly by rotating it in a Decor square profile drink flask that I've equipped with axels made out of 5/16" bolts & driven by an old Commodore windscreen wiper motor driven by an old battery charger. I'm still on the 1997 prototype version because it works, although I could probably reduce friction if I replaced the coat hanger V bearing with one made out of brazing rod. For the pedants, I do lubricate the V bearing occasionally - usually olive oil, as the kitchen is closest.

I'm interested in the wet moly process but haven't got off my butt to make up a rig for it. See: http://www.urbanrifleman.com/2013/04/11 ... ng-method/

Oh, I forgot. About every projectile has moly adhere better if they're deoiled first. I either tumble in clean media, or if I'm not in a hurry, wash them off with PrepClean or whatever name your car accessory shop calls that stuff that you dewax body panels before repainting. I strain them off & toss on an old towel & leave them until they're all dry - including the point cavity. It's reusable for a while so it attracts the Hebrew in me.