OzFclass

G'day Folks,

I have a 30", 1.25" straight 260 Ackley barrel that I am rechambering to 6.5 grendel, 20" long for uses other than f class. The barrel has around 600 rounds through it.

The smith (I won't name names at present) suggested that since the barrel does not have canted lands, flipping the barrel and using what is currently the muzzle end as the new chamber end would be a good idea, since we are removing the first 10" of the barrel.

I have never heard of this before. Obviously the driving side of the lands will be reversed, and I think his thinking is that the "new" driving side will be in better nick and I'll get a better performing barrel.

Any feedback?

BAD BAD idea "laughable" whom suggested it should know better

If the smith gauged the bore diameter and found no taper, and the proposed new muzzle area was in good condition, what would be the problem?

That's the thing Alan the barrels bore diameter will have a taper, and if you chamber it from the other end the muzzle will be larger... (This taper will be exaggerated as the barrel is a 260 Ackley and 600 rnds old and will have worn..)

I would think the “best” end should be the muzzle?

would most likely end tears, the direction of the lapping and any taper.......would be pointing to the muzzle. (in a good quality barrel)

Thanks fellas. I'm well out of my depth here, so I appreciate the nudge in the right direction.

I might use this as an excuse to use my regular smith (Lee at Trentech), even if his wait times are quite high at present. I suppose there's a reason for that.

AlexE wrote:G'day Folks,

I have a 30", 1.25" straight 260 Ackley barrel that I am rechambering to 6.5 grendel, 20" long for uses other than f class. The barrel has around 600 rounds through it.

The smith (I won't name names at present) suggested that since the barrel does not have canted lands, flipping the barrel and using what is currently the muzzle end as the new chamber end would be a good idea, since we are removing the first 10" of the barrel.

I have never heard of this before. Obviously the driving side of the lands will be reversed, and I think his thinking is that the "new" driving side will be in better nick and I'll get a better performing barrel.

Any feedback?

Well I have to say that this statement is totally incorrect & could only be made by someone who is very inexperienced in the field of gunsmithing.
Keith H.

KHGS wrote:

AlexE wrote:G'day Folks,

I have a 30", 1.25" straight 260 Ackley barrel that I am rechambering to 6.5 grendel, 20" long for uses other than f class. The barrel has around 600 rounds through it.

The smith (I won't name names at present) suggested that since the barrel does not have canted lands, flipping the barrel and using what is currently the muzzle end as the new chamber end would be a good idea, since we are removing the first 10" of the barrel.

I have never heard of this before. Obviously the driving side of the lands will be reversed, and I think his thinking is that the "new" driving side will be in better nick and I'll get a better performing barrel.

Any feedback?

Well I have to say that this statement is totally incorrect & could only be made by someone who is very inexperienced in the field of gunsmithing.
Keith H.

Does someone need training to call themselves a gunsmith, or just the right licence and a lathe?

and there is also the "lay" of the steel in cut rifles barrels to consider.
the bullet is only meant to go 1 way.
keep safe,
bruce.

A good gunsmith is like any trade. If you want a good job dont expect it to be quick or cheap.

KHGS wrote:
Well I have to say that this statement is totally incorrect & could only be made by someone who is very inexperienced in the field of gunsmithing.
Keith H.

Keith, I just sent you an email

I've read all the comments and I'll give you my thoughts.

First I will assume a new barrel.

In regards to the direction of rifling and a cut rifled barrel and if it's a straight blank. Which end you thread and chamber doesn't matter. The lay of the finish is in direction of bullet travel. So don't worry about that. This question gets asked pretty often by the bench shooters. Now if the barrel is contoured like a sporter/palma etc...you cannot flip it around. The contoured barrel won't let you of course.

Canted lands do you mean 5R style rifling? Our barrels the sides of the lands are mirror images. So again it doesn't matter. Same with conventional style rifling. You think one end is tighter then flip it around. Won't hurt anything. Been there! Done that!

Now if the barrel has been shot.....you throw in a variable. The breech end will get wear and open up slightly. No way around it. If you cut enough of the breech end off probably won't hurt anything. The other thing to think about is the chamber reamer. Being as the barrel has been fired you never really get all of the carbon fouling out of it. The hard carbon will not necessarily be nice to the chamber reamer. It might dull the tool, cause issues and it might not. So food for thought on that one.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

AlanF wrote:If the smith gauged the bore diameter and found no taper, and the proposed new muzzle area was in good condition, what would be the problem?

I agree with Alan's statement.

The hard part here is you are measuring a couple of different things. Bore size and groove size. Most people don't have proper tools to measure the bore and groove size properly and get consistent/proper readings.

Later, Frank

Frank Green wrote:I've read all the comments and I'll give you my thoughts.

First I will assume a new barrel.

In regards to the direction of rifling and a cut rifled barrel and if it's a straight blank. Which end you thread and chamber doesn't matter. The lay of the finish is in direction of bullet travel. So don't worry about that. This question gets asked pretty often by the bench shooters. Now if the barrel is contoured like a sporter/palma etc...you cannot flip it around. The contoured barrel won't let you of course.

Canted lands do you mean 5R style rifling? Our barrels the sides of the lands are mirror images. So again it doesn't matter. Same with conventional style rifling. You think one end is tighter then flip it around. Won't hurt anything. Been there! Done that!

Now if the barrel has been shot.....you throw in a variable. The breech end will get wear and open up slightly. No way around it. If you cut enough of the breech end off probably won't hurt anything. The other thing to think about is the chamber reamer. Being as the barrel has been fired you never really get all of the carbon fouling out of it. The hard carbon will not necessarily be nice to the chamber reamer. It might dull the tool, cause issues and it might not. So food for thought on that one.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

This thread has been about used barrels not new, I do agree with your thoughts on new barrels where conventional rifling is used though. However it is (in my opinion) a no no with a barrel that has seen use, depending on how much use & what the barrel is to be used for. I am assuming match use in keeping with this forum.
I have chambered a few (in the thousands) new barrels & rechambered a few (many) over the last 40 years & have never had an issue with carbon affecting my reamers (I do take steps to prevent this).
There are other issues that make rechambering a well used barrel somewhat different to chambering a new blank. Each job has to be evaluated before jumping into it & the right steps followed. Knowing what the right steps are is the trick & depends on the experience of the gunsmith. Gunsmithing is NOT rocket science, but owning a lathe & a chambering reamer does not make one a gunsmith.
Keith H.