OzFclass

What would be sound advise for a new shooter for scope choice, ?to do the job ? with out getting a divorce ?What would you tell your mate ??, Chop.

Fixed 24 Weaver from Bluebbazuka approx $580 landed.
Good scope track perfectly not to much grunt for mirage, the fixed 36 power is great as well but may have problems with summer mirage, but will double for a Small Bore BR later.
I started with both of these scopes, before the first NF came along, like they say "it gets easy after the first one"
The 36 is now on my .22 bench gun and the 24 is on a F Std .223 I sold to a newbie, and he kick's ass with it.
I let the little bugger shoot my FO gun at 600 after my first detail, fly, fly, 10, so much for the sighters and finished with a 98. last time he plays with that gun.

Graham

Nikon Buckmaster 6-18x40

Clear crisp optics.
50moa adjustment usable at the extremes.
Side focus so you're not climbing over the gun to adjust parallax.
Good clear, easy to read, continuous (no gaps in the graduations) and repeatable, 1/8th MOA adjustments.

If he's a knob turner then get the dot
http://theopticzone.com/default.aspx?ac ... il&id=1719
If he holds off get the fineplex
http://theopticzone.com/default.aspx?ac ... il&id=1717
or perhaps get the fineplex anyway for coached shoots where the coach likes to call holdoffs.


I've looked high and low for an affordable replacement and wasted a lot of time and money in the process.

I thought about the T24 while I was ordering a T36 this week for my rimfire and I realised that I really do wind down the magnification quite often to check which target i'm pointing at or watch how the next guy is going without unsettling the rifle.

Even with the high end scopes above $1000 I cannot find one with the specs I want although the new Sightron SIIISS 10-50x60 LR comes close. The Nikon has really spoiled me.

I use Weaver T 36, they are great.
theopticzone.com

Cheers
Paul

I've just been reading about the T36. A couple of people have said that the turrets are marked from 0 to 4 to 0 again and subsequently aren't continuous.

Is this the case? I can't seem to find a good photo as all tend to show them with the caps on.

How then do manage your settings and avoid picking the wrong one?

We bought a Tasco 10-14x50 for the club Omark that we use to give people a feel for F-class std. It cost about 250, plus the 90 for the tapered base and performs flawlessly. I've also used a Tasco world class in the past and had no problems with it. The Tascos are certainly not 15 times worse than the March I use now, or the 45x45 Leupold I keep as a spare.
I have seen some absolute rubbish scopes brought to the club that were very cheap - but unusuable.

A Sightron 10-50X or a Nightforce. Not the cheapest, but since there is a good chance he will be getting further into it soon, if he gets what he will end up with anyway, well it means he wont have a pile of cheap scopes sitting in his cupbourd in a years time.
And what is this talk of divorce??? Who tells their wife what their shooting bits REALY cost? .

RDavies wrote:
And what is this talk of divorce??? Who tells their wife what their shooting bits REALY cost? .

Mine does, but that isn't what is likely to get him a divorce, lol he should be so lucky!

Rod,
That is the best "Quote on Site."

Graham

I'm leaving Rod's quote well alone - remember this forum is available for everyone to see - its continuous Wiki Leaks .

But I'd agree with Rod's advice if you expect your mate to get right into F-Class. Otherwise buying a cheap scope will just delay the inevitable - i.e. buying a "proper" one.

One thing I would definitely steer clear of as a first scope is a fixed power one - you might be lucky and find it suits you - however better to get a variable and use it for a few months, then if you find you're leaving it on a particular power 99% of the time (not many do), then you might buy a fixed power with some confidence.

Alan