OzFclass

Gday

I am in the process of putting together a Savage 12 Flcass in 6.5x47 and start shooting F open for sport.

I have machined a 4 way adjustable but for the rifle that will allow LOP,cant,offset and hight adjustment.

The next plan was to install a adjustable cheek piece but after talking to my mate he said he suffered a loss of accuracy when using his in the raised position.

So what do you guys think ? do I need adjustment there? Do you try and get a strong cheek weld or do you float over the rifle?

I dont want to waste time and effort if its for no gain.


Thanks in advance,

JH

Built it to 9-10kg and shoot free recoil. I dont bother with hard holds and trying to get good cheek welds with the 308 FS gun so the 6.5x47L will be fine. Cheek welds is something for trap and skeet shooters to worry about

I don't use cheek weld with F class rifles.

Neither do I -- causes inaccuracies.

Thanks for the help.

Expect more of these noob questions from me, I have been shooting for 5+ years but only now am I getting into competition. Seeing I am spending the time and money on a purpose built rifle I thought I should get it right.


As for adding weight... dose it matter where the weight is? and use what for the weight?
I assume lead, if so where do you purchase blocks of lead?


Thanks again

JH

If you are using cheek weld, your cheek has to be the same position and pressure every single shot. This is why many remove the cheek piece.

I have removed my cheek piece, but still maintain a small amount of cheek weld. This is due to the design of the stock.

The reason for the cheekpiece is to centre you eye behind the sights,if you think that is not needed with telescopic sights,go right ahead and don`t use one,you will have plenty of supporters.
Mike.

mike H wrote:The reason for the cheekpiece is to centre you eye behind the sights,if you think that is not needed with telescopic sights,go right ahead and don`t use one,you will have plenty of supporters.
Mike.

As I understand it, and I stand to be corrected....

Seeing as we're shooting known distance stationary targets, were using scopes that allow us to adjust parallax precisely, and we have time to set up, the reticle doesn't move around the target as the eye moves slighty out of alignment.

Thats not to say that a repetetive position isn't ideal, but as I understand it, allowing this cheek pressure interference with the rifle would be more of a disadvantage than a slightly misaligned eye/scope when the parallax is set correctly.

I understand that in tactical and hunting situations where unkown distance targets need to be engaged quickly, physically and repeatedly aligning the eye via a cheek piece is the only way to accurately shoot through an incorrect parallax setting.

Again, I'm not challanging anyone, thats just my understanding of it and I'm open to opinions.

Have a look at the MBR Tracker stock. It is built for F Class. Tested over time and copied by many.
As for adding weight, I use 1 inch copper gas pipe filled with molten lead. My gunsmith has made a jig to hold the stock blank and drill holes into the but to take the lead filled copper pipe.
For F Class open barrels use 1.25 inch parallel barrels. Don't stuff around with tapered barrels as you have a 10 kg weight limit, use it.
You asked this is my winning combination.
Paul

DenisA wrote:As I understand it, and I stand to be corrected....

Seeing as we're shooting known distance stationary targets, were using scopes that allow us to adjust parallax precisely, and we have time to set up, the reticle doesn't move around the target as the eye moves slighty out of alignment.

Thats not to say that a repetetive position isn't ideal, but as I understand it, allowing this cheek pressure interference with the rifle would be more of a disadvantage than a slightly misaligned eye/scope when the parallax is set correctly.

I understand that in tactical and hunting situations where unkown distance targets need to be engaged quickly, physically and repeatedly aligning the eye via a cheek piece is the only way to accurately shoot through an incorrect parallax setting.

Again, I'm not challanging anyone, thats just my understanding of it and I'm open to opinions.

Agree Dennis

I believe a lot a people do not adjust parallax correctly for F Class. I think many just adjust the scope till the sight picture looks the best

Cameron