OzFclass

Hi All,

I'm in the process of building an F-class stock from hardwood.

Its a long, low profile, off set forend with front bag riders.

I've inletted the action and barrel channel and I've done a trial install of the alloy pillars. Before I make this bit permanant through bedding, I'd like to ask others advice concerning the aligment of the barrel to the forend and toe.
The forend and toe are parallel and straight.

Would it be better to:
a. Run the barrel parallel to the forend
b. Run the barrel slightly inclined at the muzzle to create downwards pressure on the stock through recoil.

I like option "b", but I'm concerned it might cause the stock to bounce in the bag.

Cheers.

I would go option "B" Denis.
You only need a slight incline from parallel.
You should not have bounce issues as long as you get the rifle balance right.
My main issue is controlling torque with the bigger catridges and fast twists. I shoot free recoil.

Cam

Cheers Cam. I appreciate your opinion and advice as usual.

Denis.

My advice is that while it moves alot of timber, a 4 inch grinder and 40 grit flap disc is a long drawn out way of shaping a stock. And it doesnt get the fore end flat. Mills are wonderful things! But if you dont have a shape to copy in the first place the angle grinder and flap disc does work- just be careful and dont take too much wood out.

Also if your going to paint it, take it to a professional- its worth the money. They will use a grey primer/filler which adds a bit of weight to the stock- think of this if its for FS or F/TR where you have a lighter weight limit. The finish from a professional is worth paying for.

Brad Y wrote:My advice is that while it moves alot of timber, a 4 inch grinder and 40 grit flap disc is a long drawn out way of shaping a stock. And it doesnt get the fore end flat. Mills are wonderful things! But if you dont have a shape to copy in the first place the angle grinder and flap disc does work- just be careful and dont take too much wood out.

Also if your going to paint it, take it to a professional- its worth the money. They will use a grey primer/filler which adds a bit of weight to the stock- think of this if its for FS or F/TR where you have a lighter weight limit. The finish from a professional is worth paying for.

Hi Brad,

I agree with having a pro paint the stock.
Here's my current stock. I modified it heavily for F-open 18 + months ago and had a panel beater mate paint it for me. Its came up beautifully.



With this stock I'm hoping to keep the timber in good condition and see how a stain comes up on it. Depends how it looks after the final sand.
I got the fore end flat and square quite easily with a bench saw and orbital sander.
I've based the idea off a Precision Rifle and Tool F-class Low Boy. Whether it turns out like that is another story.
An adjustable weight system will be integrated to meet the 10kg weight limit.

I'd like a vertical mill as a hobby machine. I enjoy modifying and making stocks. I wish I had the right equipment and plenty of space for it. I be constantly upgrading.

Not exactly an Fclass stock but this may be of some interest, would like to have the wood skills of this guy !

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve ... 4711078031

Thats a very nice stock dennis, I havent witnessed it yet but I hear stories of unpimped stocks winning lots of prizes on the eastern states. I think we need to do as much as possible to get some good looking stocks onto the podium!

Sounds like you'r a bit shy on good shooters.

DMC thats an interesting thread. Cheers.

Barry, losing with style isn't easy, you have to work at it.

Dennis,

Thats a nice looking stock. I never thought about talking to a panel beater, i did talk to an airbrush guy but it wasnt what i would call cheap.

Hi All,

The stocks starting to look like an F-class stock now, so I thought I'd post some pics. Still plenty of shaping to go.

Final specs will be:

Pillar bedded and Devcon bedded
Adjustable weight system
4 Way adjustable butt plate
Long, low profile, off-set 3" forend with bag riders cut in
Toe parallel to butt

GDay Dennis

I know its a bit late for you now, but i just finished redoing a savage stock that was bedded with devcon, i ended up using a Whidden VBlock turned out well, mades the inlet super easy if you were starting from stratch, might be an option for your next build !

Cheers

DMC

Yes the whidden block is very easy to work with. Saves lots of intricate cutting when inletting. The other good idea is a barrel block and floating action... no bedding at all!

Is the Whidden V block available domestically or is best to go through Whidden?

I have considered it but by the stage I was aware of them I had already drilled the pillar holes. Also This was intended just to be a trial stock so that I could understand which machines and techniques will make the job easier for future stock builds.

Thanks, good advice.

GDay Dennis

Just email Whidden, delivery was about 10 days, good people to deal with, i'll see if i can find some photos not sure i can upload to here, send me a pm and ill email them to you