OzFclass

Hi All,

I'm interested to know how different people level their setup on the mound.

Do you:
a. Centre the level on the scope or scope rail?
b. Centre the level on the front rest?
c. Square the reticle against the target frame?

I've found that 'a' and 'c' dont always agree with each other.

Cheers,
Denis.

Dennis, I do (b) the rest bubble and then find that (a) the scope bubble agrees and is done. The fact that they always agree is a good start for me. I have seen some targets that are a bit off when the target mound is slanting to one side.

Denis

Very important to have a level on the scope that is levelled perfect to the reticle.
On the mound you simply reference with the level on the scope only.
Then check it each shot. This is even more important as you go back to the longer ranges.

Cam

Cameron Mc wrote:Denis

Very important to have a level on the scope that is levelled perfect to the reticle.
On the mound you simply reference with the level on the scope only.
Then check it each shot. This is even more important as you go back to the longer ranges.

Cam

Absolutely spot on. I use levels on the scope rail (these are closer to eye level) & I use levels on the scope tube, both work well, but a lot of care must be taken to ensure that the level & reticule are square with each other. As Cam says this is imperative at the longer ranges, if not your wind zero will be different at long range than it is at short range.
Keith H.

Exactly what Cam said, level your scop correctly, and attach a bubble. I really don't see how a bubble on a rest can help with anything other than ensuring the rest is level.

I re-level after each shot off a bipod using the bubble, frames are often not right, I have even seen them change during a string, which would really bugger you at the longs....

Thanks for the input guys. I understand the importance of a level and the scope being setup 100% square, etc.
I guess the point of the question is that as I mentioned in the O.P and Josh said, a correctly installed and squared rail level on the mound doesn't always agree with the reticle being square to the target.

In general, are target frames setup and checked for being square?

If you normally go off your scope level and it doesn't agree with the target frame, do you doubt the rail level or the target frame?

On don't trust the target, the frame can be out of square, the runner can be a bit out, if the slides are a bit sticky one side can jam.

I have seen no only targets come up a different level i.e. Skewed left instead of right from on exposure to the next, and the craziest thing j have seen is a target blown clean out of the carriage.

Don't trust the target.

DenisA wrote:Thanks for the input guys. I understand the importance of a level and the scope being setup 100% square, etc.
I guess the point of the question is that as I mentioned in the O.P and Josh said, a correctly installed and squared rail level on the mound doesn't always agree with the reticle being square to the target.

In general, are target frames setup and checked for being square?

If you normally go off your scope level and it doesn't agree with the target frame, do you doubt the rail level or the target frame?

Why would you doubt your level if you have taken the time to correctly set it up????
Targets are often not level, which is why T/R shooters always shoot with a level in their front sight tunnel. These are not just screwed on by eye, having set thousands of these up for customers over the years, the importance of squared sights is second nature. Do not be tempted to square your rifle to the target because sooner or later you will get caught out at long range. This will always happen when you need to be sure of you zero i.e. in light conditions that cross centerline. No so big a problem in moderate to strong winds from one side only. You will get slaughtered if the wind crosses centerline when you are not sure of your zero.
Keith H.

Lucky enough to own a plumb bob and string. Set the scope cross hairs to perfect vertical with the string as it hangs down under tension to the plumb bob. Then set the scope level to match that while the rifle is on the rest. Then on the range get the scope bubble level.

Brad Y wrote:Lucky enough to own a plumb bob and string. Set the scope cross hairs to perfect vertical with the string as it hangs down under tension to the plumb bob. Then set the scope level to match that while the rifle is on the rest. Then on the range get the scope bubble level.

There you go, then trust your set up regardless how square the target looks through the scope.
Keith h.

It's simple in theory, but when your level on the mound and target doesn't line up with the reticule..........the mind games start.

I guess it's just a confidence thing.

Thanks everyone, you've answered my question and set my mind at ease.

The worst thing I reckon isnt when a target is level or not, its when you can see it being wobbled around by either wind or just from someone hanging on it.

We had to shoot on manual targets yesterday as our genset system failed for the ET's.

Our targets are on a cantilever swing system not a straight up and down. I was watching the target come back up through the scope, the spotter was in and the score marked so I sent another shot down but I swear the target was wobbling up and down a little. No matter it was only a club shoot, but if it was a prize shoot and counted for a little more I wouldnt have been happy. Shot like shit too so that just made it worse

You guys would love shooting at Blair Athol in Scotland where the 6 targets step down a sloped pit & like most Pommy targets are casually squared up. We learned there that if you didn't align your (Match) rifle with a bubble, the optical anomolies would result in you shooting 2 MOA left of zero.

Brad Y wrote:The worst thing I reckon isnt when a target is level or not, its when you can see it being wobbled around by either wind or just from someone hanging on it...

Yes I've seen the latter cause too often - its usually the result of a combination of sloppy target and sloppy marker.

AlanF wrote:

Brad Y wrote:The worst thing I reckon isnt when a target is level or not, its when you can see it being wobbled around by either wind or just from someone hanging on it...

Yes I've seen the latter cause too often - its usually the result of a combination of sloppy target and sloppy marker.

When marking (and its been a long time since I did it (and I initially mucked up the spotter colour because its been so long!)) I lift the frame up and actually lean on it so its held up as hard as possible. Ive seen it help stop a bit of wobble from the wind and also up and down on that system. Im never pulling down on it until the shot comes through. I figure give good target service and hopefully another shooter repays the favour...

OFF TOPIC- I will say I really enjoyed shooting on manual targets again and it caught me out big time in terms of wind and mirage reading. I really do think the ET's make shooters lazy in terms of wind reading. Me included.