OzFclass

I noticed a quirk with my large (most used) pro-shot cleaning rod tonight. When it's idle or thrust forward the rod spins easily in the red anodised handle. When the handles pulled backwards, the rod becomes very firm to turn. Something must be wearing Inside the handle as my 2 smaller, less used, pro shot rods are fine. I'll have to pull it apart and have a look. It's not that bad that it stops the rod from turning with the rifling, but I can see that it could get that way with time.

Probably a dumb question, but Tony have you checked that your rod spins freely when pulled?

Anyone else seen this with the pro-shot rods?

DenisA wrote:I noticed a quirk with my large (most used) pro-shot cleaning rod tonight. When it's idle or thrust forward the rod spins easily in the red anodised handle. When the handles pulled backwards, the rod becomes very firm to turn. Something must be wearing Inside the handle as my 2 smaller, less used, pro shot rods are fine. I'll have to pull it apart and have a look. It's not that bad that it stops the rod from turning with the rifling, but I can see that it could get that way with time.

Probably a dumb question, but Tony have you checked that your rod spins freely when pulled?

Anyone else seen this with the pro-shot rods?

Yes!!!
Keith H.

DenisA wrote:I noticed a quirk with my large (most used) pro-shot cleaning rod tonight. When it's idle or thrust forward the rod spins easily in the red anodised handle. When the handles pulled backwards, the rod becomes very firm to turn. Something must be wearing Inside the handle as my 2 smaller, less used, pro shot rods are fine. I'll have to pull it apart and have a look. It's not that bad that it stops the rod from turning with the rifling, but I can see that it could get that way with time.

Probably a dumb question, but Tony have you checked that your rod spins freely when pulled?

Anyone else seen this with the pro-shot rods?

Yep never buying a pro shot ever again for that reason! Ive dissected the handle on a 20 cal one and there is no bearings in there either! Waiting on a dewey shipment to get to the LGS. The boretech coated rods didnt seem too bad either, just a little noisy but spun quite well.

I just spoke to Damien at BRT and mentioned that my .270 + cal rod was binding when pulled backwards. Apparently there was a bad batch 5 years ago that Pro-shot are aware of. The handle grub screw was put in the wrong position and interfering with the rod. The problem was identified and rectified a long time ago.

I hadn't mentioned the age of mine and the timeline fits perfectly.

Ive lost a 17/20 cal one a 22 cal one and now lost my second 270+ cal one. They were all purchased the same time as I did a big buy of cleaning rods. Looking forward to this lot of deweys arriving. Sorry to pro shot but Ive totally lost confidence. Pull apart their handle and you can see why. The design is pretty shit.

I haven't pulled mine apart yet brad, but I will and I don't doubt what your saying.

What's inside a dewy rod Brad? Agreed the pro shot isn't much chop and I've been thinking about making my own with quality bearings.

Ball races according to what I've read & how they sound & spin. Some time back, the races were plastic, but they've been steel for some years now.

Not sure about a dewey but it seems to be the only brand that people consistently recommend. Got to be better than pro shot. The pro shot one was basically a spindle on the steel rod with a roll pin in the ally handle stopping coming out. Ally and steel, plus cleaning solvents and chemicals... they just didnt last. Not so bad if you pushed brushes through one way then all the way back but short scrubbing with iosso in the throat to remove carbon really seemed to kill them. Bore tech rods sound like they have a bearing system of some kind. A little noisy to spin but are smooth.

I purchased a boretech eliminator cleaning rod about 4 years ago and it still spins like new. Have purchased another one a couple of years ago. On their website they claim "Bore Tech’s BORE STIX™ feature the only true ball bearing handles in the industry" - I am sure there are others that spin well too but that is their claim.


Whatever you use I advise very strongly you watch it is spinning in both directions - and you will see why when we post the next chapter to the saga...!!!

I've got a couple of Tipton carbon rods they have a nice big handle with roller bearings at both ends an run very slick

I have been reexamining all of my cleaning rods and the results are interesting.

Like others, I have bought new ones after moving to longer barrels and smaller bores and needed one in a hurry.

Two of these have no ball bearings. Instead, there is a slot near the rear end. A roll pin rides in this slot to provide end thrust. These were originally quite free to turn and the system is not as bad as it sounds because of the 'bearing's' small diameter. The problem is that, because of the slot in the small diameter rod, there is almost no diameter left so it is very susceptible to bending or wear or damage. And many are made of soft steel.

I wonder how many people have used their cleaning rods to eject stubborn shells or jammed patches. Ironically, this is often done in an emergency to get someone else out of trouble. Well, this type of rod handle suffers immediately if there is any tapping on the handle which bends the thin slot and shank. From there, it never runs properly.

If you make one using ball bearings, be aware that the grease in standard ball bearings is thick enough to stop them turning freely with light loads. You have to remove the seals and clean out the grease. The best ball bearing cleaning rod handles run very freely and are almost a sloppy fit.

Many of my cleaning rods are old English ones - some have been in the family for more than 50 years. And these have the freest running handles. But many are now too short and fat.

I am about to revamp some of them by cutting off the rod about 2 inches in front of the handle and making an adapter which will simply be a coupling rod bored for the old and new rod size with maybe 2 grub screws on each. There must be hundreds of old Parker Hale or similar rods sitting around in cupboards. All better made than most modern over priced crap.

The important rotary attributes are.

1/ Very free turning handle.

2/ Easily disassembled for cleaning. The roll pin one is a disaster. I had to cut it apart to investigate the innards.

3/ About 3 red stripes on the turning boss or adapter so rotation is seen at a glance.

4/ A separate rod to be abused and hit as required. Keep your precision rod for its intended purpose.


Yes - this has been a wake up call. It should rotate freely

CHECK YOUR ROD !

Peter Smith.

Haha yep Pete I was thinking of making a similar adapter and using better bearings as well!


What are people's preference for cleaning rod length? Currently the handle or my cleaning rod runs over the cheek piece. If I make another rod the bearings will probably be larger and may make the handle too big to fit over the cheek piece. Just wondering how many are already doing this and if the have any issues with rod flex and arm reach using the longer rod?

This point about cleaning rods is probably worthy of its own thread if you read this Alan.

Very interested to hear the next part of the saga. Off to the shop to buy a few BORE STIX if the deweys arent in. No more cleaning til I get new rods and throw the last of the other ones out.

Brad Y wrote:This point about cleaning rods is probably worthy of its own thread if you read this Alan.

Very interested to hear the next part of the saga. Off to the shop to buy a few BORE STIX if the deweys arent in. No more cleaning til I get new rods and throw the last of the other ones out.

Yep, think I'll be doing that too Brad.