OzFclass

I'm seriously considering making an all alloy stock with a rather large Vee block for the Savage 12 single shot. This is dependent on finding a source for alloy that is both cheap and will supply smaller lengths.
The reason for the large Vee (longer than usual, extending all the way to the back of the action) is that it will form the core which fore-stock, grip and butt will mount to. This is different to the norm where a Vee is encased inside the stock and either glued or screwed in place. There are some issues doing it my way, particularly the amount of machining required on the block but also achieving something like acceptable overall appearance. I want the front rest plate to be as close the the barrel as possible and also not have the action looking like it is sitting high and proud of the stock. I may, once plan drawn up, need to get this machined up elsewhere as it could be beyond my little "no DRO" mill drill. There would be numerous accurate screw holes plus the trigger/safety block cut out and trigger guard relief.

My question is this:- Has anyone else done their own V Block and what angle did they use? A shallow V will be neater (less gap under) but brings the contact points in closer together. A deep V has broader contact spacing and logically would seem to be a better option for clamping both true and rigid. a really deep V could conversely increase the required block depth. Obvious cut angles to use would be 90 Deg V (with an end cutter, tilt the block) or 45 Deg cutter and milled relief slot, or a 60 Deg with 60 cutter also with centre milled relief slot.

2nd question. Has anyone got a plan for the Savage 12 4.4 inch 3 screw action? Just to save me having to blue print it.

Thanks

The "legendary" Barnard V block is wide but truncated - see http://www.barnard.co.nz/v-bedding-blocks.htm

G'day Eric,

I shoot a few Savage 12's. I've made a stock using a Whidden V block, am having stocks made using Whidden V blocks and have factory Savage alloy bedding block stocks here too.

I can post up some pics of the Whidden and the factory model 10 blocks if you like. They are very different in the V design.

My experience and a widely accepted principal of accurising a Savage action is that the tang needs to be free floated. If you check the factory stocks the tangs are mostly free floated too but touch in spots. If your looking to bring that V'block all the way back for the purpose of attaching the grip and butt, I would recommend that you make sure the tangs free floated.

I think you'll find that all of the Savage compatible alloy chassis systems such as MDT, XLR and KRG are built the way your suggesting.

johnk wrote:The "legendary" Barnard V block is wide but truncated - see http://www.barnard.co.nz/v-bedding-blocks.htm

Thanks John, I hadn't seen this image before nor had I considered that the V could be spaced by a flat, probably because I was approaching it from a machining point of view rather than design. This actually simplifies things greatly.

DenisA wrote:G'day Eric,

I shoot a few Savage 12's. I've made a stock using a Whidden V block, am having stocks made using Whidden V blocks and have factory Savage alloy bedding block stocks here too.

I can post up some pics of the Whidden and the factory model 10 blocks if you like. They are very different in the V design.

My experience and a widely accepted principal of accurising a Savage action is that the tang needs to be free floated. If you check the factory stocks the tangs are mostly free floated too but touch in spots. If your looking to bring that V'block all the way back for the purpose of attaching the grip and butt, I would recommend that you make sure the tangs free floated.

I think you'll find that all of the Savage compatible alloy chassis systems such as MDT, XLR and KRG are built the way your suggesting.

Thanks for your response. I took a look at the Whidden site, this was the set of images which originally made me question the V angle, theirs appear to be a shallow V. Their Savage Vee I presume is not full length as there is no cut out for the trigger unit and it vastly different to the Remington style also shown. What I plan is closer to the Remington but full stock depth.
I haven't seen the model 10 one (nor the Choate, which may be same??) so any thing here much appreciated.

I had planned on cutting both sides of the block for bolt lever ( just in case the stock goes to a lefty some time) and it would be easy enough to provide a few thou clearance tang wise from this point back. In fact that would work out reasonably well with the Mill X axis limits. The whole design will have to consider that limitation, I don't want to have longer lengths I have to match up for machining. There would be a fairly tight slot or fit up for the lug.

On the brands you list, the principle is indeed the same but I will be rather more F class functional than those.

This project is because I have a Savage 12 FTR supposedly of low round count (under 200 as purchased) that just won't shoot for me. I put maybe another 300 through all 155 grain and can't tune a group in. A lot is that the stock doesn't suit me nor is it a good fit to F class. Both bedding and torque have been tried too. I love the action and think this would go great in a different calibre and stock. I've got time on my hands atm, looks like I won't be shooting in a hurry as I'm at home currently waiting on an appointment for diagnosis on shoulder rotator cuff problem.

Did you happen to buy that rifle off a guy name dave?

Really can't recollect a name, was from out of State, about 18 months or so ago. Rifle appears to be in V good condition, can't find any flaws. I'll check my phone for the texts but I may have changed phones too.

Update:- All I can find is 1st initial M out of ACT.

Eric, here's a picture of a model 10 HS precision V block. The centre gap is wide slightly rounded the V flats at the side are narrow and contact quite high. Looking carefully at the pics, you can see the contact points have rubbed.

Is it a factory barrel?

ShaneG wrote:Is it a factory barrel?

yes, 30 in with 1 in 12 twist.

Thanks for the photo DenisA. I'm actually amazed how little there is of it, not much in the way of contact on it at all. I wonder if my mental image for the design is over engineering it.

That HS stock is part of a very accurate factory rifle too. At 100y, 5 shot groups consistently less than 0.5moa off a bipod.. So the V block must be doing its job.

Eric B wrote:Really can't recollect a name, was from out of State, about 18 months or so ago. Rifle appears to be in V good condition, can't find any flaws. I'll check my phone for the texts but I may have changed phones too.

Update:- All I can find is 1st initial M out of ACT.

Thanks, a mate just sold one with the same round count.
Thought it may have been the same rifle and I would have got some info for you.


Sorry I can not help

My personal opinion only but the Savage factory barrels are "hit and miss"?!
I had a factory 6.5 x 284 years ago - barrel was so bad I ended up selling as stock and action.
If you have access to a bore scope , try and assess the bore and another telling process is to slug it if you or someone has the experience to do so?
There is a very good chance that a rebarrel would fix the issue?
I have seen these actions with match grade barrels be extremely competitive!
Shane

I think you are right Shane, it has to be the barrel. It certainly isn't the bedding or the action. To the eye the barrel looks perfect, not sure what more a bore scope will achieve, either way the final proof here is in a replacement barrel. Thinking of going 6.5 super LR with it for F Open. Maybe even dropping to 6BR and a bench if the shoulder problems are longer term.

I have tried contacting Savage support over the issues but I have to say they were useless, even initially coming up with the wrong twist ( and projectile recommendation ) despite having model and serial number provided. Their final answer was take it to a gun smith.

This of course still leaves me wanting to replace the stock, a better personal fit and better front/rear bag riding I'm sure will work wonders.