OzFclass

I recently had my first shoot using the Oz Score target system and I'm not yet competent, if that's the right word, with it's use. When it comes up on the screen to tell you the direction to adjust the scope seems to be my problem. Under the ressure of a match is not the ideal time to get used to new gear. Anyone know of a tutorial or suggestions.
John

I have been shooting on Ozscore for 4 1/2 years now. I do not use the Up/Down , Left/Right moa from centre info for anything except to dial in a wide/wild 1st sighter. It is a personal thing, but I judge my sight adjustment based on condition changes and placement of previous shot relative to the rings on the target as shown on the screen.

If your new to shooting on E Targets, resist the temptation to fire and immediately jerk your head to look at the screen. Carry out follow through, Check conditions (flags), unload, and then look.

I have noticed that those who try to make sight changes from screen data end up over correcting and are looking at the screen and not the conditions.

Thanks Bob, There's a 500 m shoot on tomorrow and I want to (literally) give it my best shot. I have a 100m Zero and with my Creedmoor loaded with 140 Amax I reckon I've got about 55inches of drop.

headspace wrote:Thanks Bob, There's a 500 m shoot on tomorrow and I want to (literally) give it my best shot. I have a 100m Zero and with my Creedmoor loaded with 140 Amax I reckon I've got about 55inches of drop.

Hi Headspace , if you want to improve ur shooting and 1 st sighter to a 6 or x ! Get a ballistic calculator on ur phone such as JBM and start working in Moa or milliradains . Working in inches of drop will work against you , which as you progress you will see what I mean !
The JBM app can be download of the App Store ! I studied the wind charts in Moa and that has helped me get my head around Moa coming from milrads !

Good luck and just have fun !

headspace wrote:I recently had my first shoot using the Oz Score target system and I'm not yet competent, if that's the right word, with it's use. When it comes up on the screen to tell you the direction to adjust the scope seems to be my problem. Under the ressure of a match is not the ideal time to get used to new gear. Anyone know of a tutorial or suggestions.
John

Up to last October I had been shooting on Hexta targets for the previous 3 years.
The screen is set out in moa squares so it give you an indication of exactly how much you need to adjust to find the centre 'if' the wind does not change. Actually it makes you lazy and you miss it when shooting elsewhere.
Some time previously I printed copies of the ICFRA targets for each range which also had moa squares in 1/8th divisions, (graph paper) and laminated them, and from memory they were on the SARA site though I cannot find them on any site now.
If you go to http://icfra.com/page16.htm you will see the score/plot sheet for each of the ICFRA targets.
Print each range(2 plots to A4 page) and then when the range comes up that you are shooting, plot your shot and you will see just how far you need to move, again, 'if' the conditions are the same.
After awhile you will automatically correct your shot by memorising details such as on the 300 metre target, the 6 ring is just under the 2 moa square and the 5 ring is just over.
What Bob said about lifting your head to quick is a common fault that has been picked up by many using ET's. Using manual targets the shooter does not need to change head position much to see the spotter, in fact I stayed on aim, observing flags, until the target came back up.
ET's demand that you turn your head to some degree and, positioning the monitor to minimise this, is a good start. Still stay on aim for a brief time so as to evaluate whether you pulled a good or a bad shot and note whether the wind changed while taking your shot!
The best advise that I can give you is to ignore the arrows and adjust your scope according to the plot which will become redundant as you automatically calculate the adjustments from memory.
If tracking is your problem(and even top shooters wind the wrong way sometimes!) then set up your gear and sight on a spot/printed small-bore target about 10 metres away. Think where you want to go and wind the scope while on aim. You will soon get the hang of which way the crosshairs (and your potential shot)are going.
Please note that the width of the rings is not constant, as you will observe on a printed target.
Good luck.
PS: it is against the rules to have electronic devices on the mound. What Graham is eluding to is using the devises to study and memorise.

Yes , thanks Ray . That is correct no electronic devices on the mound ! Best to memorise ur wind calls as even if u did use them , one would be about 30 seconds behind the conditions and mirage! Sometimes the conditions you want to shoot in only there for a few seconds! So a ballistic app would disadvantage you.

I don't mind sharing what I've learnt as plenty of good people have helped me over the years. So one of the biggest things in wind reading is learning to read wind and mirage in Mph. Then learn to read from the direction it's coming from eg 3:00 o'clock right wind . Always call the direction of correction! Then learn the wind in a clock face nomenclature ( naming ).
Use ur JBM to see a pattern in the math. In math and in wind reading corrections , everything has a pattern of what to devide by or times by and or add to get the Moa or miliradians correct to the strength of wind . You master that and you can come up with 6 and x ring sighters and are able to correct on the fly for a changing condition.( although I'm still mastering all of the above).

When driving along or going for a walk, read the mirage accross the road and see what direction it's coming , then judge its strength and keep practicing . With mirage reading you can become very accurate up to 5 mph . After that it starts to run out !
Buy an kestrel wind speed gauge and before the shoot walk up to the flag and see what the flag looks like at certain mph strengths. Again after about 14 mph , the flags are just saying its #*#* windy!
Generally wind will have a book end , then constant conditions , then the other side of the bookend !
Which flags are the most important ? All of them ! But for learning rule of thumb on flat terrain the near flags hold more weight and are ur primaries with the the ones down range are your modifiers!
I'm sorry to gabble on but I do have a heart for helping newbies . Hope it helps !

Many thanks to you fella's and especially yourself Plumb. This is a steep learning curve because up to now it was either hunting or benchrest for me. So those of us who are just starting out need all the help we can get. I've already found that the better the shooter the more willing he/she is to help a new starter. I guess that could well be what the future of F Class is all about.
John