OzFclass

I am looking at using moly coated projectiles and have prepared quite a few using the wet method. The results look really good but not sure where to go to now. Barrel has been cleaned of all crud with solvents, bronze brushes and JB paste. Does the barrel now need any sort of moly prep before starting to use the moly coated pills? Does any sort of moly prep need to be done after regular cleaning?
Steve.

Footsore wrote:I am looking at using moly coated projectiles and have prepared quite a few using the wet method. The results look really good but not sure where to go to now. Barrel has been cleaned of all crud with solvents, bronze brushes and JB paste. Does the barrel now need any sort of moly prep before starting to use the moly coated pills? Does any sort of moly prep need to be done after regular cleaning?
Steve.

No.
Keith H.

Depends how serious your clean is Steve. If your cleaning involves removing the moly that's built up then you might want to apply a moly paste as the last stage of your clean. This will help it on its way back to a moly coating. I use moly paste even after light cleaning - in most barrels, it reduces the cold barrel low (or high) shot problem.

There are also , many brands of MOS2, I looked into this years ago, for the most consistant micron type and quality, I found a German made M5 Pulver, it worked ok for me with longer strings of shots and less harsh cleaning needed, every time I cleaned, Most times , One low shot, and then I let it come up with no alteration , and then got consistant elevation, without a Doubt . Longer strings, Chop, ps , not cheap , but goes a long long way.

I like Keith's reply. Sounds simple so I think I will go with that. I really didn't want to go mucking around with moly after cleaning at the end of the day. This Lyman Super Moly is very fine and gives an excellent coating using the wet method and no mess at all.
Thanks for the other replies.
Steve.

In the worst case it won't take any longer than it does for those guys who need unlimited sighters,,,,

???

Steve, Keith is spot on just go shoot it.
I used the dry application method to the projectiles, just make sure the barrel is clean then go shoot it. I found after using moly, (still do) shooting was extended in between cleans. I found after good cleaning it took maybe 5 rounds before it really grouped tight again. I reckon you could fire 200 rounds between cleans, that's the real reason for using moly.
Geoff

G'day All. I'm going through moly coating for the first time myself and have brought a couple of barrels back to metal. I see that this question has been answered beyond doubt, however at the Queens I have seen moly paste being used to prep a bore.

I do like the idea of rubbing a little moly into the bore before the fouling starts. I'm thinking that a patch or mop rubbed lightly with moly powder and run up and down the barrel a few times might not hurt. Has anyone done it this way before?

Denis I have tried both and a little moly applied after a clean hasn't hurt. Probably not necessary at shorter ranges. I did shoot a 1000 yard range from clean without it and the rifle seemed all over the place for the first seven or eight shots. NOT a way to start the second day of a prize meeting...A bit of paste may have helped I'm not sure. I am still learning how to manage the moly but cleaning does seem much easier.
Steve.

I have used the dry impact coating with WS2 available from Canada(believe it is the finest micron there is).
I cleaned the barrel vigorously with Hoppes and bronze brush, then patch out with Hoppes on Parker hale jag, then with use dry patches until dry.
Use a nylon bristle brush to anoint barrel liberally with Sweets Oil and leave it until next shoot..(my normal cleaning regime)
At next shoot, it was then patched out with dry patches until nothing was showing, then used a patch around the jag impregnated with SW2 to condition barrel.
It is the same basic method that I use for naked projectiles, but for those I just patched out the Sweets.
Gave away the moly as although coating projectiles correctly was straight forward and gave a very professional finish, I could not justify the extra work with 308W barrels. I believe that it would be of immense benefit for Fopen calibres and particularly for the various powders used, (otherwise Keith would not be doing it).
.Getting over 8000 (accurate)rounds out of one barrel with naked projectiles tells me what I do is working.
My biggest hurdle was psychological. Should I clean after each week, or shoot until it went off? Being a pedantic old bastard I found that I just cannot store a rifle without cleaning it so projectile coating was discarded as being unnecessary.

Edit; WS2 is Tungsten Disulfide. 99.9% pure and 0.6 Micron. So it is not Moly in the true sense of the word. I did find that when the projectile was treated, it could be handled without any of the coating coming off onto my fingers, which I did encountered with Moly.
I got the WS2 from M K Impex, Canada http://www.lowerfriction.com and it comes in one pound(lb) bags and mine came airmail back then. Just in case someone may wish to try it.