Feet on concrete mounds
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Feet on concrete mounds
Would like to hear what people think are the best style feet on a front rest for concrete mounds. I have proper f class style feet for grassy mounds but not sure if I should take them off and just have the flat bolts for concrete or get a flat rubber shoe for each bolt or round the bolts slightly.
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Re: Feet on concrete mounds
Short BR style spikes Ive found are best for when I shoot 500m Fly. Ill run the same for concrete mounds.
Shaun aka 'Quick'
Yanchep, Western Australia
308 Win F/TR & F-S
7mm F-Open Shooter.
Yanchep, Western Australia
308 Win F/TR & F-S
7mm F-Open Shooter.
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Re: Feet on concrete mounds
Yep. I have two sets of adjusters for my rest - one with F Class feet & one with hard points for benches & concrete.
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Re: Feet on concrete mounds
I have screw in feet on both the front rest and rear plate. Different feet depending on different ground or concrete.
Long thin spikes for very hard but irregular baked ground.
Deep but far more broad ones for marshy ground which we get in the North on some ranges after a lot of rain. Have experimented with 6 broad shorter spikes for very marshy ground on a rear plate.
For concrete I have very small stubby feet almost flat on the end but a slight cone shape. Slight convex would work OK but it is easier to turn up a slight cone on a lathe.
The main purpose of the slight convex is to force the bearing on the concrete close to the middle of the foot so when the knob is turned there is no tendency for the foot to bind near its circumference and walk sideways.
Townsville is the only concrete mound I have shot from and the concrete is very short and has been laid at too steep an angle so I have a variation that works well.
1/ The front foot of the front rest has a thin long spike which goes over the front of the concrete mound. Its rear feet use the stubby almost flat but slightly coned feet on the concrete.
2/ I use the small stubby slightly coned feet on the rear of the rear plate and no feet on the front of the rear plate. Thus the front of the rear plate contacts along its front edge.
This rides well, its rear being held higher, so partially levels the rear plate which helps on that very steep concrete mound.
Long thin spikes for very hard but irregular baked ground.
Deep but far more broad ones for marshy ground which we get in the North on some ranges after a lot of rain. Have experimented with 6 broad shorter spikes for very marshy ground on a rear plate.
For concrete I have very small stubby feet almost flat on the end but a slight cone shape. Slight convex would work OK but it is easier to turn up a slight cone on a lathe.
The main purpose of the slight convex is to force the bearing on the concrete close to the middle of the foot so when the knob is turned there is no tendency for the foot to bind near its circumference and walk sideways.
Townsville is the only concrete mound I have shot from and the concrete is very short and has been laid at too steep an angle so I have a variation that works well.
1/ The front foot of the front rest has a thin long spike which goes over the front of the concrete mound. Its rear feet use the stubby almost flat but slightly coned feet on the concrete.
2/ I use the small stubby slightly coned feet on the rear of the rear plate and no feet on the front of the rear plate. Thus the front of the rear plate contacts along its front edge.
This rides well, its rear being held higher, so partially levels the rear plate which helps on that very steep concrete mound.
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Re: Feet on concrete mounds
I did some googling and research on accurateshooter as well. Seems like a few benchrest shooters use a product called benchrest super feet. A metal disc with a dimple for the rest bolts and with neoprene base and this stops rests from moving on concrete benches. Originally the rubber was too thick and spongy and they got some bounce out of them so they made it slimmer and the problem went away.
I was walking through bunnings today and noticed some similar things in where the Velcro is. All plastic/rubber but seems very firm. They look like chic mint bikkies but they have the same dimple that the bolts will sit in. I thought for the massive cost of 6 dollars, they might be worth a try so I got a set. Will see how they pan out, I might try them at 1000yd benchrest soon. Now to put a bit of a point on my rest screws...
I was walking through bunnings today and noticed some similar things in where the Velcro is. All plastic/rubber but seems very firm. They look like chic mint bikkies but they have the same dimple that the bolts will sit in. I thought for the massive cost of 6 dollars, they might be worth a try so I got a set. Will see how they pan out, I might try them at 1000yd benchrest soon. Now to put a bit of a point on my rest screws...
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