Hi all.
All new to Target shooting and im keen on getting into F-class open here in Victoria early in the new year. I bought a rifle a few months back for red deer on my families farm in the grampians. But after sighting it in i started pushing its range capabilities and quickly realised it was a hell of a lot further than i'd ever expected
and with all my smaller caliber rifles and shotguns up the farm my deer rifle isnt really getting used so much so i though id get into Open F-Class seeing i think thats all i can shoot in. i have no idea about the rules or equipment yet but with your help and a trip to the best range for it near me that all should change
here are some pics of my rig up the farm -
Hey all! :) noob here
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Cheers guys
Yeah im up the grampains a fair bit so ill drop in at Stawell some time for sure. Alan has giving some contact details for some one closer to where I live and hopefully that works out.
Ive also got all the RCBS reloading stuff and enough now to make 100 new rounds that I will work on to get a handload right for my rifle. Once I have a load worked out ill see what sort of groups im getting at 800 and 1000 yards and if im getting enough in a 6 inch target ill be signing up some where asap. Right now im hitting 6-8 inch balloons at 900 yards pretty much every shot and that’s with factory highland ammo so I hope to get a bit better with some handload hornady stuff for sure. Ive got 100 180 gr SST’s but ill use them for hunting and buy some hornady 180-200gr v-max or a-max for the range. They should cut through the wind nicely.
I just have to get a small sandbag for under my rifle butt and im good to go I think. Im sure ill learn everything else I need when I get to a range
Yeah im up the grampains a fair bit so ill drop in at Stawell some time for sure. Alan has giving some contact details for some one closer to where I live and hopefully that works out.
Ive also got all the RCBS reloading stuff and enough now to make 100 new rounds that I will work on to get a handload right for my rifle. Once I have a load worked out ill see what sort of groups im getting at 800 and 1000 yards and if im getting enough in a 6 inch target ill be signing up some where asap. Right now im hitting 6-8 inch balloons at 900 yards pretty much every shot and that’s with factory highland ammo so I hope to get a bit better with some handload hornady stuff for sure. Ive got 100 180 gr SST’s but ill use them for hunting and buy some hornady 180-200gr v-max or a-max for the range. They should cut through the wind nicely.
I just have to get a small sandbag for under my rifle butt and im good to go I think. Im sure ill learn everything else I need when I get to a range
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Hi Brenny T3
Welcome to F Class.
I started out with a Tikka Master Sporter in 6.5x55 and got the bug.
I have a Tikka Tactical in 223 that I use for F Class Standard, all I had to do was fit a 20min rail on top and introduce a little free bore for the 80gn Sierra MK's.
While you are starting to reload for the range, give a thought to the 210gn Bergers and Sierra's . They have a high BC and will give the 7mm's a run for there money.
I am currently using a 300WSM on a Barnard action and I am just experimenting with 210gn projectiles. I started using 220 Sierra MK's, they are good but I like the higher BC.
Also you can make up some removable weights for the but and fore end for your TT, slot them in for F Class, take them out for hunting, just a thought.
Cheers
Paul
Welcome to F Class.
I started out with a Tikka Master Sporter in 6.5x55 and got the bug.
I have a Tikka Tactical in 223 that I use for F Class Standard, all I had to do was fit a 20min rail on top and introduce a little free bore for the 80gn Sierra MK's.
While you are starting to reload for the range, give a thought to the 210gn Bergers and Sierra's . They have a high BC and will give the 7mm's a run for there money.
I am currently using a 300WSM on a Barnard action and I am just experimenting with 210gn projectiles. I started using 220 Sierra MK's, they are good but I like the higher BC.
Also you can make up some removable weights for the but and fore end for your TT, slot them in for F Class, take them out for hunting, just a thought.
Cheers
Paul
Time's a wasted wot's not spent shooti'n BARNARD 300WSM's
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thanks guys
hey pest bird its good to see some one else with a T3 tac. gives me hope did you add the rail because you ran out of angle on the scope against the barrel on the 223? running my scope stock its only 28 MOA at 1000 yards with under pa ammo so i probably dont need to lift it mate.
but really i have no idea.
im buying a 223 soon and am thinking of getting one that can be used on the farm and in F-class aswell. maybe a savage 12 series.
even reloading its going to cost me $1- a pop on the 300 win mag hahahah
hey pest bird its good to see some one else with a T3 tac. gives me hope did you add the rail because you ran out of angle on the scope against the barrel on the 223? running my scope stock its only 28 MOA at 1000 yards with under pa ammo so i probably dont need to lift it mate.
but really i have no idea.
im buying a 223 soon and am thinking of getting one that can be used on the farm and in F-class aswell. maybe a savage 12 series.
even reloading its going to cost me $1- a pop on the 300 win mag hahahah
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Hi brenny T3
Apologies for the late reply.
I had a 20min steel rail fitted only because I first started out with a Weaver V 24 scope. It was fitted to the standard Tikka picatinny (0 moa) rail and I ran out of elevation at 700 meters.
I had the rail fitted and it solved the elevation probs using the Weaver scope.
I now have a S& Bender 4-16 PM11 on the Tikka and I could do away with the 20min rail as the PM11 scope has plenty of elevationfor long range shooting.
Cheers
Paul
Merry Festivities
Apologies for the late reply.
I had a 20min steel rail fitted only because I first started out with a Weaver V 24 scope. It was fitted to the standard Tikka picatinny (0 moa) rail and I ran out of elevation at 700 meters.
I had the rail fitted and it solved the elevation probs using the Weaver scope.
I now have a S& Bender 4-16 PM11 on the Tikka and I could do away with the 20min rail as the PM11 scope has plenty of elevationfor long range shooting.
Cheers
Paul
Merry Festivities
Time's a wasted wot's not spent shooti'n BARNARD 300WSM's
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pest bird wrote:I now have a S& Bender 4-16 PM11 on the Tikka and I could do away with the 20min rail as the PM11 scope has plenty of elevationfor long range shooting.
Paul,
That's not exactly the case.
Ultimately, you want to give a scope the greatest opportunity to perform as precisely as possible at the longest range you will shoot at. That range is the distance that can be expected to to need the most wind & wind adjustment cranked on & might need the most fiddling with your elevation to get it right.
That said, the mechanical centre of a scope is where that condition is most likely to be satisfied. That's not to say that your S & B or somebody else's whatever is not precise all through its range. All it means is you try to dial as many risks as possible out of the equation.
Which is a long way saying that your 20 MOA rail still serves a good purpose if it gets your long range zero closer to the mechanical centre of your scope.
John
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