Annealing necks ...good thing or bad thing?
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Phil D wrote:I mate I'm knocking up one of these late you know how I go.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msgcZyYeTqM
Phil D
Wallumbilla RC
Hey Phil, any chance of a equipment list to make one of these? and where to buy the bits. Think I should make one.
Geoff
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DaveMc wrote:Denis - I couldn't help but notice the colour change in the head area of your brass??????????
Ha, ha, nice pick up Dave, but it's not the annealing. When I polish the cases with steel wool, I put them in the Lee shell holder and spin them up very quickly on the cordless screwdriver. The steel wool doesn't touch the head completely due to the collar of the shell holder and leaves the head unpolished.
You can see the un-annealed staggered cases have it too, of varying degree because I don't try and get my nails and steel wool into the corner of the shellholder collar. Hurts my finger tips too much...
They have that tarnished look after being U/S cleaned, rinsed in water and air dried.
Some bases look purple from that first pic, but its just the angle / tarnished brass / the light in the pic. The second photo is a better representation of the base colour. Same brass, same order, different angle.
Thanks for bringing it up though Dave, it obviously a pretty important point that I've not explained given the way the photos come out.
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williada wrote:Graham, I do anneal, but what I do is work harden the neck a little after annealing. To do this, I use a Sinclair neck expander. Its long and does not distort the necks unlike the commercial oval shaped expanders. I re-neck size and then go in with expander a couple of times to work harden the brass, then resize or shoulder and neck. This seems to iron out a bit of the inconsistencies of the case after annealing.
David, I tried sizing, expanding and re-sizing sizing after annealing for the first time tonight and found that the bullet seating felt much more uniform than it does when simply annealing, neck sizing and loading.
Great tip, thank you. I'll be adding that to my system.
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Rebel105 wrote:Phil,
would a variable fan/light controller work if the motor is too fast. could slow it down with that or if your using a 12 volt motor it's easy to vary just like your battery drill. Or use the variable battery drill???????
Geoff
Geoff
I'm sorry for the delay on reply. I have a 12v motor and speed controller which cost $80.The motor is a max 35 rpm motor which is too fast for propane so I'm using matgas because it is a hotter gas. I'm still looking for a slower motor to give me more range on the speed controller. I hope to have it running soon and will post photos.
Phil
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