Cleaning Rod Handles

Cameron Mc · Post by **Cameron Mc** » Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:18 pm

I have raided old good quality VCR Video players for small bearings for cleaning rod handles.

Just a thought. I am sure there are other sources.

Cam

Brad Y · Post by **Brad Y** » Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:38 pm

Got an old akai vcr here thats older than me! Might be worth more than just a few sets of bearings tho!

KHGS · Post by **KHGS** » Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:43 pm

Yes - this has been a wake up call. It should rotate freely

CHECK YOUR ROD !

Peter Smith.[/quote

I have, over many years of professional gunsmithing, seen more barrel damage caused by poor cleaning rods & poor cleaning rod handling than any other single cause. All of what Peter says is correct. It is frightening to watch some firearm owners use a cleaning rod!!!! :roll:

As Peter states & I agree the older English rods are the best I have seen provided the brass ferrule at the brush end is removed & the coating stripped off & the rod polished with some 360 grit wet & dry paper followed by a Scotchbrite dish scouring pad. The English style female brushes to suit these rods are a downside though. So the ideal would be an English handle & rod with an American brush end long enough for our long barrels. The closest I have seen to this formula is the Boretech rod.
Keith H.

pjifl · Post by **pjifl** » Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:20 pm

Old computer disk drives also contain excellent bearings. But, buying new ones is another option.

A large long handle on a cleaning rod simply encourages people to grab it hard so the rod bends badly.

Some of the best have a smaller ball shaped handle or even something akin to a finger grip rather than a full hand grip.

Peter Smith.

KHGS · Post by **KHGS** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:26 am

pjifl wrote:Old computer disk drives also contain excellent bearings. But, buying new ones is another option.

A large long handle on a cleaning rod simply encourages people to grab it hard so the rod bends badly.

Some of the best have a smaller ball shaped handle or even something akin to a finger grip rather than a full hand grip.

Peter Smith.

Correct again Peter. But rather than try to get around incorrect cleaning rod use by these methods, it would be much better if users put as much attention to how to use a cleaning rod correctly as they do to which is the best bullet or chambering or barrel or action or solvent. Always best to concentrate on the basics of everything first. Then move on to the more interesting bits of this precision long range shooting that we all love.
Keith H.

BATattack · Post by **BATattack** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 12:54 pm

Would 304 or 316 be a suitable material for a cleaning rod? Pro shot rods are magnetic so I'm not sure what they are made of or if I'll be able to get my hands on some material the same

KHGS · Post by **KHGS** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 1:03 pm

BATattack wrote:Would 304 or 316 be a suitable material for a cleaning rod? Pro shot rods are magnetic so I'm not sure what they are made of or if I'll be able to get my hands on some material the same

Proshot rods are too soft & are prone to bending, so similar material in my opinion is not suitable. Correctly heat treated 304 or 316 would be fine I think.
Keith H.

BATattack · Post by **BATattack** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 1:41 pm

304 and 316 can't be heat treated but it's harder than barrel steel.

pjifl · Post by **pjifl** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:15 pm

Straight, hard steel rods can be bought at Model Making places as Music Wire.

While called 'wire' this is misleading - up to 1/4 inch which is thicker than you want.

Being a rather superior higher carbon content steel, it will rust less easily than mild steel. Personally I think it is the best available for this use but it is not 'stainless'. Stainless 316 is easily bent and 304 usually the same.

Lengths available vary. It was available in 36 inch lengths. Not sure now.

The steel as supplied is hard but just bendable but you will have to really try to bend it.

If you want to thread the ends you can heat gently until the very end takes on a blue colour which will soften it locally.

Do not forget to taper off and polish the front end a touch. Carborundum wet and dry paper works very well. Start with about 300, then 600 then 1200 wet with some kerosene or diesel being best.

BATattack · Post by **BATattack** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 4:36 pm

Hmmmmm I recon we might be able to source some "piano" wire from a local spring makers

Malcolm Hill · Post by **Malcolm Hill** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 7:01 pm

Why not just buy a coated Dewey rod that doesn't bend or damage your barrel?
Regards Malcolm.

IanP · Post by **IanP** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 8:18 pm

Malcolm Hill wrote:Why not just buy a coated Dewey rod that doesn't bend or damage your barrel?
Regards Malcolm.

X 2

Ian

aaronraad · Post by **aaronraad** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 9:13 pm

BATattack wrote:Hmmmmm I recon we might be able to source some "piano" wire from a local spring makers

I'm a big fan of the K&S Music Wire range, best ejection pin material straight out the box for point forming I've worked with. It will still spring when hardened and tempered O1 or drill rod will crack under a compressive load, repeatedly.

Nominal 36" or 1m lengths may not be enough for some though.

johnk · Post by **johnk** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 9:15 pm

A very worthwhile thread. I have a couple of pensioned off K & M rods & dad's PH rods from half a century ago. I reckon a couple of stepped sleeves & a tad of solder & they'll be back in business again for purposes other than poking stuck cases & bullets out of mug shooters' barrels.

KHGS · Post by **KHGS** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:09 pm

Malcolm Hill wrote:Why not just buy a coated Dewey rod that doesn't bend or damage your barrel?
Regards Malcolm.

Dewey rods will & do bend but not as readily as Proshot rods, Dewey do have good handles, good rods, but not as good as Boretech which will also bend too but not as easily.
Keith H.