Barrel Break-in question

Get or give advice on equipment, reloading and other technical issues.

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Southcape
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Post by Southcape »

Cameron Mc wrote:
I use Nev's method. I shot, clean. 2 shots clean. 3 shots, clean. 2x 5 and clean. Then you are in business. I have used this for many barrels without problems.

There is no way I would spend one week breaking in a barrel :shock:

Just my opinion
Cameron


This is also how we break in barrels.
Linda
Barry Davies
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Post by Barry Davies »

Alan,
Tom Lowndes did produce a product called "defoul"--- pink in colour and mildly abrasive.
Barry
RAVEN
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Post by RAVEN »

http://www.coretacsolutions.com/products_KG_KG12_TEST.htm

and another test

Greg sweets only works if you agitate it with oxygen this requires scrubbingIf I can do it with out this
thats what I will go for.
Each to thier own I guess :)
RB :)
Brad Y
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Post by Brad Y »

Orright who sells this KG12 online or at least who distributes it so I can try a bottle?
RAVEN
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Post by RAVEN »

SARA store should stock it
it cost a few bickies to buy the whole system but will last a couple of years
Cheers
RB
macguru
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Post by macguru »

I think sweets will work just fine if you have a little copper, and it wont harm the ss barrel..........but if you use it with a brass brush you will get a false positive every time. Just wet the inside , leave it for 5 mins & get it out with a clean patch. If there is any blue repeat it. remember it will pick up copper from the jag too if you leave it on long enough....

andrew
bruce moulds
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Post by bruce moulds »

my last barrel was run in with the use of a friend's borescope, and this was a most enlightening exercise.
procedure was as usual.
keep shooting and cleaning 1 shot at a time until copper fouling disappeared.
repeat with lots of 2 shots until copper disappears.
repeat with lots of 3 shots until copper disappears
repeat with lots of 5 shots until copper disappears.
then clean every 10 to count for 4 ranges at club shoots.
the borescope clearly showed carbon streaking and copper fouling.
the traditional method of looking at the side of the bore for copper proved to be insufficient, as there was often some still left, in the form of irregularly placed streaks down inside when the bore was judged to be clean by non borescope methods.
the situation was taken advantage of to compare different cleaning products. take it from me, just because you stop getting blue with sweets doesn't mean you have got all the copper.
good old hoppes no 9 is better than i thought.
doing a run in as described takes time, so the more you can save the sooner you finish.
the primary intent is to develop the bore absolutely evenly over its entire surface area, meaning that each bullet or string must start on an absolutely clean condition, or the fouled bit is not getting burnished..
the absolutely quickest cleaning process used was, 10 strokes with kg carbon remover on a bronze brush. this also removes a lot of copper. 10 strokes with kg abrasive on a firm fitting jag. this seriously gets rid of stuff. 10 strokes with kg copper remover on a bronze brush. this eliminates the need to waste time soaking.
wash bronze brushes in shellite or similar.
i then put 2 patches wet with hoppes through to remove the kg, and 2 dry and shot again.
this is what i would do without a borescope because i have seen with a borescope how it works.
the most obvious thing noticeable internally was the throat and leade changing.
all the sideways toolmarks had disappeared when run in had finished.
i am not sure whether they were burnished out, or removed by flame blasting, but they went.
this barrel now cleans well with just 6 to 8 strokes of hoppes on a bronze brush.
just one guy's mileage.
keep safe,
bruce.
"SUCH IS LIFE" Edward Kelly 11 nov 1880
http://youtu.be/YRaRCCZjdTM
AlanF
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Post by AlanF »

Bruce,

I find that sticking to a recipe such as the Madden one (mine is very similar) gets the job done. With my very first 6.5 barrel, a Tru-Flite, I remember trying the single shots repeatedly, but after about 30 shots it was still coppering. In my experience, as you increase the number of shots, the break-in process is accelerated. Of course, you do need to clean thoroughly after each group of shots, to prevent build-up of copper/fouling layers.

Alan
johnk
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Post by johnk »

There's another option that helps too, Alan. I have some old 220 grain SMKs lying around that I use with my .308s. That extra bearing length seems to speed things up.

Interestingly, I've an inkling that Boron Nitrite coating speeds up run-in too, or maybe John Giles is getting even more painstaking.

John
bruce moulds
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Post by bruce moulds »

alan,
this could suggest that my suspicion re flame blasting of the freebore area is the critical thing re running in, and polishing the bore is of little consequence.
john,
when moly came out, it was considered necessary to run in the barrel with naked bullets prior to putting a coated one through. boron is obviously different. all too complicated for me!
keep safe,
bruce.
"SUCH IS LIFE" Edward Kelly 11 nov 1880
http://youtu.be/YRaRCCZjdTM
IanP
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Post by IanP »

Cameron Mc wrote:
phillh wrote:Hi all,

have a look at Border Barrels site at how they shoot in a barrel, if you follow there guidlines it would take over a week. http://www.border-barrels.com/articles/shoot-in.htm

Phill


Phill, you will find barrel makers will have their own technique as far as break in goes.

I spoke to Nev Madden about this some years ago and he suggested these techniques are based on opinion, not science. I totally agree.

I use Nev's method. I shot, clean. 2 shots clean. 3 shots, clean. 2x 5 and clean. Then you are in business. I have used this for many barrels without problems.

There is no way I would spend one week breaking in a barrel :shock:

Just my opinion
Cameron


A lot of us shoot Krieger barrels and they have a really good guide to break-in and cleaning. Pretty much the same as Madden's for break-in and then go on to explain how its the new throat that causes the copper deposits during break-in. Its well worth a read http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_In_ ... wp2558.htm

Ian
runstewart
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gun cleaning

Post by runstewart »

hi just use the gun as you would as all guns dont over heat and clean with petrol but not e86 as it may cause rust from water in it :twisted:
DannyS
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Post by DannyS »

????????????????????? :?: :?:
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