Annealing necks ...good thing or bad thing?

Steve N · Post by **Steve N** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 12:40 pm

Great info Denis. Thanks for the tips.

saum2 · Post by **saum2** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 1:13 pm

Phil D wrote:I mate I'm knocking up one of these late you know how I go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msgcZyYeTqM

Phil D

Wallumbilla RC

Hey Phil, any chance of a equipment list to make one of these? and where to buy the bits. Think I should make one.
Geoff

RAVEN · Post by **RAVEN** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 1:19 pm

williada
Great post I agree with all of that info
RB

DaveMc · Post by **DaveMc** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 3:31 pm

Denis - I couldn't help but notice the colour change in the head area of your brass??????????

Post by **AlanF** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 3:58 pm

I reckon he put them in a frying pan to dry them .....

RAVEN · Post by **RAVEN** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:13 pm

I don’t quench large brass it isn’t required as once it has reached temp the heat doesn’t travel any further down the brass than 5-10mm past the shoulder.
RB

DenisA · Post by **DenisA** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:28 pm

DaveMc wrote:Denis - I couldn't help but notice the colour change in the head area of your brass??????????

Ha, ha, nice pick up Dave, but it's not the annealing. When I polish the cases with steel wool, I put them in the Lee shell holder and spin them up very quickly on the cordless screwdriver. The steel wool doesn't touch the head completely due to the collar of the shell holder and leaves the head unpolished.

You can see the un-annealed staggered cases have it too, of varying degree because I don't try and get my nails and steel wool into the corner of the shellholder collar. Hurts my finger tips too much...

They have that tarnished look after being U/S cleaned, rinsed in water and air dried.

Some bases look purple from that first pic, but its just the angle / tarnished brass / the light in the pic. The second photo is a better representation of the base colour. Same brass, same order, different angle.

Thanks for bringing it up though Dave, it obviously a pretty important point that I've not explained given the way the photos come out.

Phil D · Post by **Phil D** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:06 am

Hey Phil, any chance of a equipment list to make one of these? and where to buy the bits. Think I should make one.
Geoff

Hey Mate I have made my first prototype. But I used a 35 rpm motor is a bit fast and looking for a slower one I will post here when I get it .

Phil D

saum2 · Post by **saum2** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:31 am

Phil,
would a variable fan/light controller work if the motor is too fast. could slow it down with that or if your using a 12 volt motor it's easy to vary just like your battery drill. Or use the variable battery drill???????
Geoff

Nathan P · Post by **Nathan P** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:29 pm

I went to jaycar and they hooked me up with a 12 volt motor and speed controller cost around 60 bucks

DenisA · Post by **DenisA** » Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:25 pm

williada wrote:Graham, I do anneal, but what I do is work harden the neck a little after annealing. To do this, I use a Sinclair neck expander. Its long and does not distort the necks unlike the commercial oval shaped expanders. I re-neck size and then go in with expander a couple of times to work harden the brass, then resize or shoulder and neck. This seems to iron out a bit of the inconsistencies of the case after annealing.

David, I tried sizing, expanding and re-sizing sizing after annealing for the first time tonight and found that the bullet seating felt much more uniform than it does when simply annealing, neck sizing and loading.

Great tip, thank you. I'll be adding that to my system.

williada · Post by **williada** » Wed Jul 30, 2014 11:37 pm

Cheers.

Phil D · Post by **Phil D** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 6:15 am

Rebel105 wrote:Phil,
would a variable fan/light controller work if the motor is too fast. could slow it down with that or if your using a 12 volt motor it's easy to vary just like your battery drill. Or use the variable battery drill???????
Geoff

Geoff

I'm sorry for the delay on reply. I have a 12v motor and speed controller which cost $80.The motor is a max 35 rpm motor which is too fast for propane so I'm using matgas because it is a hotter gas. I'm still looking for a slower motor to give me more range on the speed controller. I hope to have it running soon and will post photos.

Phil

saum2 · Post by **saum2** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 8:28 am

Phil,
I tried the battery drill; too fast so I need a slower motor. I got a bit eager so I tried the battery drill with shell holder method. a few experimental tries then did a 100 cases. I had to count & watch every one for uniformity, but they look good, yet to fire any to see how they go.
Geoff

ned kelly · Post by **ned kelly** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 6:23 pm

G'day all,
we used a battery operated BBQ spit roast motor for moly coating years ago, I think from memory it was about 30rpm.
It might work, especially as the batteries go flat it will be have some variable speed control!
Cheerio Ned