what's the best hard carbon remover
Moderator: Mod
-
- Posts: 1345
- Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:29 pm
- Has thanked: 92 times
- Been thanked: 280 times
what's the best hard carbon remover
Has anyone found a carbon remover that is quick and easy to remove hard carbon ?
I have no problem gettig normal carbon and copper fouling out but ive discovered some hard carbon below the normal carbon/ copper layer and shes baked in!! Haha. jb DOES work but its pritty slow.
I have no problem gettig normal carbon and copper fouling out but ive discovered some hard carbon below the normal carbon/ copper layer and shes baked in!! Haha. jb DOES work but its pritty slow.
-
- Posts: 335
- Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:40 pm
- Location: Mid North S.A.
- Has thanked: 8 times
- Been thanked: 107 times
Any of the automotive combustion chamber cleaners should work. I use AC Delco 88900161 which is available from Holden dealers. I use with a good bronze brush and it works well. Have experienced the hard embedded carbon in some barrels and it is difficult to completely remove. Plugging the muzzle and filling the bore overnight tends to soften the carbon making it a little easier to remove. Good luck.
Regards Malcolm.
Regards Malcolm.
-
- Posts: 1345
- Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:29 pm
- Has thanked: 92 times
- Been thanked: 280 times
Malcolm Hill wrote:Any of the automotive combustion chamber cleaners should work. I use AC Delco 88900161 which is available from Holden dealers. I use with a good bronze brush and it works well. Have experienced the hard embedded carbon in some barrels and it is difficult to completely remove. Plugging the muzzle and filling the bore overnight tends to soften the carbon making it a little easier to remove. Good luck.
Regards Malcolm.
Yeah i tried this other stuff i got from the holden dealer and it removed all the top layer in one application but wouldn't touch the hard stuff. It wasn't the same brand so i might try and hunt up what your using.
-
- Posts: 1345
- Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:29 pm
- Has thanked: 92 times
- Been thanked: 280 times
Billy308 wrote:suggest you try autosol metal polish. That will get out what JB leaves behind with half as many strokes. Only disadvantage is low sighters, but you learn to allow for it
I might give that a little try next time. For now i managed to get it done with about 15 patches of jb and about 30 strokes per patch!!
Not shooting for a while i started to doubt myself. Before if i had a vert shot i would jb straight away. I somehow put that procedure on the bottom if the list. Now with a borescope i can see those vert shots MIGHT not have been me or a tuning issue.
Be careful with the use of autosol you can polish out rifling if you go too hard and often with it. I have found the pink autosol better than the white stuff. Otherwise iosso paste is very good.
My procedure is to put the muzzle up to a vertical surface so you don't push abrasive cleaner through the crown and use a stuff nylon brush with iosso smeared on it then a drop or two of oil. Then pass once to the muzzle and back the. 3-5 up and backs in the throat then one more up and back. I do this 3 times total, spinning the brush inside the bore guide after each up and back so any paste doesn't settle on one side. You can feel when it's done but that should be enough. The oil helps get the carbon into suspension and to getting all out I will wet patch with solvent then wet nylon brush to stir up any residual paste and wet patch until they come out clean. I only do it every 80 or so shots in 223 or my 6.5mm and every 100 in 308. If you do a solvent clean while your barrel is still warm from shooting this seems to help remove carbon before it hardens up.
I've tested this method with a borescope and it does work.
My procedure is to put the muzzle up to a vertical surface so you don't push abrasive cleaner through the crown and use a stuff nylon brush with iosso smeared on it then a drop or two of oil. Then pass once to the muzzle and back the. 3-5 up and backs in the throat then one more up and back. I do this 3 times total, spinning the brush inside the bore guide after each up and back so any paste doesn't settle on one side. You can feel when it's done but that should be enough. The oil helps get the carbon into suspension and to getting all out I will wet patch with solvent then wet nylon brush to stir up any residual paste and wet patch until they come out clean. I only do it every 80 or so shots in 223 or my 6.5mm and every 100 in 308. If you do a solvent clean while your barrel is still warm from shooting this seems to help remove carbon before it hardens up.
I've tested this method with a borescope and it does work.
Subaru make an excellent product and it comes highly recommended from accurateshooter.com
Look here for info on it: http://www.subaru.com.au/parts/upper-cylinder-cleaner
Ian
Look here for info on it: http://www.subaru.com.au/parts/upper-cylinder-cleaner
Ian
-
- Posts: 2900
- Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2005 4:07 pm
- Has thanked: 413 times
- Been thanked: 330 times
once you get it out, the best way to remove it from then on is to avoid it.
clean the day of use with hopes 9, kg1, or an engine carbon remover using a good bronze brush, buy brushes by the doz and go to a new one quickly.
intermittent brushing and soaking will make life a bit easier.
higher pressures make harder carbon. look for a lower node.
don't shoot the gun dirty. this cooks it on, making it into something like ceramic, harder than the barrel steel.
the kg system of kg1 followed by kg2, followed by kg 12 will keep things pretty safe.
if this gets it too clean, try using acetone prior to shooting. this will allow a rapid fouling of copper and therefore a quicker stabilization of poi.
this carbon removal relies a lot on mechanical action to remove it.
keep safe,
bruce.
member: moulds willment pair
long range pairs match bisley style
lower light 2013
clean the day of use with hopes 9, kg1, or an engine carbon remover using a good bronze brush, buy brushes by the doz and go to a new one quickly.
intermittent brushing and soaking will make life a bit easier.
higher pressures make harder carbon. look for a lower node.
don't shoot the gun dirty. this cooks it on, making it into something like ceramic, harder than the barrel steel.
the kg system of kg1 followed by kg2, followed by kg 12 will keep things pretty safe.
if this gets it too clean, try using acetone prior to shooting. this will allow a rapid fouling of copper and therefore a quicker stabilization of poi.
this carbon removal relies a lot on mechanical action to remove it.
keep safe,
bruce.
member: moulds willment pair
long range pairs match bisley style
lower light 2013
"SUCH IS LIFE" Edward Kelly 11 nov 1880
http://youtu.be/YRaRCCZjdTM
http://youtu.be/YRaRCCZjdTM
-
- Posts: 279
- Joined: Mon Mar 18, 2013 4:21 pm
- Location: Waikato NZ (Ex Tyabb)
- Has thanked: 10 times
- Been thanked: 58 times
IanP wrote:Subaru make an excellent product and it comes highly recommended from accurateshooter.com
Look here for info on it: http://www.subaru.com.au/parts/upper-cylinder-cleaner
Ian
I use Mercury Marine Quicksilver Carb & Engine Cleaner. It also appears to remove some Cu. I couldn't source the GM one but will have a look for the Subaru version. I use Autosol (sparingly) to remove the carbon ring that forms just in front of the chamber with W760 powder. With Autosol, that nice black colour that keeps coming out is virgin barrel steel!!