What band do you use?
And what are the pros’s and Cons?
Torque wrench/ driver
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Re: Torque wrench/ driver
Kinchrome, only one I could find locally that didn’t cost a small fortune. Probably not as accurate as some, but it gives me consistent results when torquing the action bolts.
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Re: Torque wrench/ driver
Given a well bedded Action and stock,is there an advantage that can be measured by using a torque wrench,as against not using one ?
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Re: Torque wrench/ driver
I found my Savage rifles were able to be ‘tuned’ using the action screws. Not sure of the impact it would have on a stronger action but my F-open rifle has to come apart to fit into its transport case. I shoot more comfortably knowing that each time I put it back together it’s torqued to the same settings as the last time I used it.
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Re: Torque wrench/ driver
if you can tune a rifle by adjusting torque on action screws, there is a no questions asked bedding problem.
something is bending when you do it.
proper bedding puts the action in a no stress situation.
bending actions is a factory zig to replace a zag.
similar to putting pressure on the barrel from the forend.
bruce.
something is bending when you do it.
proper bedding puts the action in a no stress situation.
bending actions is a factory zig to replace a zag.
similar to putting pressure on the barrel from the forend.
bruce.
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Re: Torque wrench/ driver
mike H wrote:Given a well bedded Action and stock,is there an advantage that can be measured by using a torque wrench,as against not using one ?
At the torque settings we use, probably not Mike. Easy enough to see tge results of tge extremes, loose or over tightened, but measured tension on each screw?
The main problem is the issue of how to torque. We use a measured radial force in an attempt to apply a set tensile force. The process relies on eliminating friction between the threads and at mating surface/s. If threads aren't immaculatly clean and lubricated the outcome will not be consistant.
There have been many studies into this in the engineering world, some big ones over the last few years due to car and truck wheels coming adrift.
Best efforts to achieve conststant moderate (wheel nut) "tensile" settings (which is what we are actually after) give "agricultural" results. Scale that down to 45lb inches of torque and,,,,, well, dont expect too much.
For me, it's a head space game. I do it best I can.
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Re: Torque wrench/ driver
My reply was gobbled up somehow so here goes again.
I did buy a special torque wrench but hardly ever use it now. I doubt that good quality Socket Head Cap Screws holding full depth in a hardened Barnard can be over tightened by hand enough to do damage unless you really try. This maybe different in a softer Omark. Torquing is partly a leftover from wooden bedding where one can crush the wood. I always tighten the front screw a tiny bit more than the rear - again this is probably a leftover from wooden bedding.
An Al block needs to be very accurately made or it can bend both the block and or action. If you can obviously tune a rifle with the takedown screws, yes, I think you should be assessing the accuracy and adequacy of the bedding.
As Tim has mentioned, Torquing is far from an exact science. It depends too much on surfaces and lubrication giving different friction. Some high class engineering actually measures the elongation of the screw instead to achieve more consistent settings.
Peter Smith.
I did buy a special torque wrench but hardly ever use it now. I doubt that good quality Socket Head Cap Screws holding full depth in a hardened Barnard can be over tightened by hand enough to do damage unless you really try. This maybe different in a softer Omark. Torquing is partly a leftover from wooden bedding where one can crush the wood. I always tighten the front screw a tiny bit more than the rear - again this is probably a leftover from wooden bedding.
An Al block needs to be very accurately made or it can bend both the block and or action. If you can obviously tune a rifle with the takedown screws, yes, I think you should be assessing the accuracy and adequacy of the bedding.
As Tim has mentioned, Torquing is far from an exact science. It depends too much on surfaces and lubrication giving different friction. Some high class engineering actually measures the elongation of the screw instead to achieve more consistent settings.
Peter Smith.
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Re: Torque wrench/ driver
I have found that the v blocks which are popular now add a wrinkle in that high torques used draw the action down into the vee, therefore requiring some tension consistency, definitely not “unstressed” but I wonder if it helps control the barrel action joint movement by preloading 2/3s of the joint, however given a well fitted barrel joint I believe conventional bedding is better
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Re: Torque wrench/ driver
If the Al block is made so the centre is undercut slightly by a few thou leaving the forward and rear to bear an equal distance in front of and behind each screw, I believe the Al Block never distorts. Surely if the action is drawn down into the Al, that is not a bad thing as long as the previous balancing of contact is done. I used to think a very good conventional pillar bedding was superior to a V block but have changed my mind on this. This of course all assumes a hardened and ground action such as a Barnard and the takedown screw heads bear against a steel collar which then bears directly against the block underside.
Peter Smith.
Peter Smith.
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