New To F-Class - Equipment Check

[Quinny]

I am fairly new to shooting, and looking to get into F-Class Standard. At the moment I have a fairly basic setup:

Rifle: Tikka T3 Varmint Stainless (completely standard)
Calibre: .308Win
Scope: Nikon Buckmaster 6-18x40 with BDC reticle
Rests: Caldwell Rock Jr pedestal rest, Caldwell rear sandbag

I handload my own ammunition, I just need to work out what projectiles are allowed under competition rules.

I am also thinking of changing the scope to something more target dedicated like a Weaver T36.

Can anyone offer any suggestions about anything else I need or should address or offer any advice to get me started?

I am on a budget so going to a TRG-42 and a Nightforce scope is not an option.

[AlanF]

Quinny,

Allowed projectiles are Dyer HBC, Sierra Matchking and Nosler, all 155gn boat-tails, and obtainable thru State Associations, powders AR2206H, AR2208, any primers or cases.

If your rifle has an Anchutz type rail then you might want to get a 3" wide plate for the fore-end. You will need a sloping (20 MOA or thereabouts) rail so the scope won't run out of adjustment at the longs.

I wouldn't rush into getting another scope immediately - you won't be giving away much with an 18X. A few years back 16X were quite common. Wait a bit before you decide because its something important to get right for your own requirements.

Probably the best thing to do before you buy ANYTHING is to go to a range with F-Class shooters and there will usually be some experienced scope shooters who will give you good advice. Don't rely on gun dealers - most know very little about F-Class.

Good luck.

Alan

[Quinny]

Thanks, I won't be upgrading the scope just yet - I only just got this one, and it seems pretty good, just not as much magnification as I would like.

I don't have a picatinny rail at the moment, I am using Talley one piece mounts, but I will get a set of Optilocks soon, so a rail will be an option then. The scope has 50MOA adjustment, and the reticle has marks for up to 500m, so it shouldn't be too bad.

As for bullets, so the Sierra MatchKing 155gn HPBT "Palma Match" projectiles should be legal for use in F-Standard?

[AlanF]

...As for bullets, so the Sierra MatchKing 155gn HPBT "Palma Match" projectiles should be legal for use in F-Standard?

Yes - there are two types - the newer #2156C have a higher BC.

[Quinny]

Excellent, the 2156 with the .504 BC is what I had in mind. Thanks.

[M12LRPV]

Hi Quinny,

I also started with a Nikon buckmaster with the BDC reticle. I bought it because it's affordable and because I used the target dot reticle version on my 22lr.

I thought the BDC reticle would be needed for holdover at 800m.

I was wrong. The BDC reticle was too thick and the wife (we share the gun) would often sight the target at the wrong point in the reticle (i.e. reticle to "busy" and complex)

We sold it and took the target dot reticle version from my 22lr and put that on and it's staying because there is nothing out there that is better than it for anywhere under $1000. They're an awesome scope.

I own a T36 (it replaced the Nikon on my 22lr) and can tell you that it is no good for F-Class. The turret graduations are quite frankly stupid and are really just suited to benchrest. They go from zero to 4 to 4 to zero whereas on the buckmaster every graduation is unique. If you write it down you can return to it with 100% surety and never have to wonder if you "got the right 3..." A big issue for those starting out.

I own a Caldwell Rock Jr but don't use it for F-Class. I would say that it's too low and is barely adjustable. If you have the ability to do it you need to raise it up a lot plus get some timber or something to raise up your rear bag. For the rest I would look at getting some timber to put it on to get it up high enough.

Is there any particular reason you are considering the optilocs?

I have a friend that shoots a Tikka and he and I agree that nothing beats the Burris Signature Zee rings with the inserts. You can even do away with the tapered rail if you want to. If you go with a standard weaver style mounting system you have near endless options.


Remember, it's prone shooting so you'll need a mat.

Get out there. Talk to everyone. Let them tell you their systems and choose the one that works for you.

If you can, find a chronograph to shoot over. Nothing beats a known velocity for that beginners deep end jump into the longer ranges

[Quinny]

The mounts on my rifle are pretty cheap, but they are fine for 500m I reckon. I was considering the OptiLocks because that is what most Tikka/Sako owners seem to recommend, but I am open to other options.

My rests are something else that I will eventually replace with something with a bit more adjustment. The Caldwell ones work fine for the moment, but I can see that there will be an issue with adjustment for longer range. I was considering going to a bipod, but not sure on that one yet.

[actionclear]

I think your gear is fine as a starting point. As your shooting improves you will find you out grow your current gear. The first thing I would change is your front rest.

I started with the same rest, upgraded to the Caldwell'rock' when I felt there was no other reason for my scores.

I am still using the same Caldwell, but have also upgraded parts so not much of the original rest remains.

Use what works for you.

[Quinny]

Would you recommend going to a better quality pedestal rest or a bipod?

[M12LRPV]

Would you recommend going to a better quality pedestal rest or a bipod?

That rest will do for a start but you need to get it up higher and get some adjustment room into it. Even off the bench mine runs at maximum height.

As I have other rests to use I haven't been motivated to change it but when I do it would be getting screwed to a piece of timber and some sort of adjustable foot arrangement constructed through the timber. A handful of bolts, nuts and washers from bunnings would do that job for a couple of dollars.

If you have a bipod I advise taking it with you as a backup option.

[actionclear]

Would you recommend going to a better quality pedestal rest or a bipod?

I would recommend borrowing a bi-pod to see if you like the way it handles. Same with front rests.

It's a big investment either way, you will want to get it right.

[Quinny]

It has been a while since I was here last, so I thought I would put up an update. I have changed my front rest to the Caldwell "The Rock" version which seems much more stable than the Rock Jr I had before. I have also upgraded the recoil pad on my rifle to make things a bit more comfortable.

I am still considering what to do about optics. The BDC reticle is useless at longer distance because the lines are too thick and blocks out a chunk of the target. I am considering whether to get another Buckmaster with Mildot reticle, or whether to bite the bullet (pardon the pun) and get a Sightron 6-24x50 or 8-32x56. The Sightron is about $600 more, but from everything I have seen and read, it is a very nice piece of gear.

I grabbed some Lapua brass and some of the Dyers 155gn and Sierra 155gn Palma Match (2156) projectiles. I have loaded up 50 of the Sierra's with different loads, will test them out on the weekend. The following weekend I will try the Dyers and see what works.

Getting there slowly but surely. With any luck, after Easter I will have my loads sorted and I can get out to Geelong Rifle Club and see how I go over longer distance.

[AlanF]

...I am considering whether to get another Buckmaster with Mildot reticle...

Quinny

I don't know of anyone who actually uses the dots as intended on a mildot reticle in F-class. They look good but don't do much - a bit like a rear spoiler on a front wheel drive car (or any road car for that matter) . Better to get a reticle that suits our target and your aiming method (be it aiming off or in the middle).

On scope choices, you need to ask yourself if you're in F-class for the long haul - if you are, get your Sightron (or other quality scope) now.

Good shooting.

Alan

[Quinny]

I see what you mean, agreed that the extra dots are no good for F-Class, but I like the idea of having the marks to have as a hold over reference if I want to use them for something other than F-Class - like metallic silohette etc. Generally the dots are fairly fine and don't obstruct the view like the BDC reticle does. Seeing as my Tikka is my only rifle, it will get used for other forms of shooting other than F-Class.

I can't see myself getting really serious about F-Class, it is all about having a bit of fun, so maybe the Nikon is all the scope I need.

[Brad Y]

I used to use a mil dot and it worked ok for casual shooting.

What I would recommend now though would be a scope that had a proven tracking (adjustment) system. For hunting and target shooting, maybe a weaver grand slam as their adjustments are supposed to be the same as thier T series, or spend the extra on either a sightron or nightforce. I think Im going to try the grand slam as have had a good run out of the weavers for a while on a few rifles.