JB products?

[DenisA]

Hi All,

I'm just wondering what the consensus is on JB bore cleaning compound and JB bore bright?

I've been polishing the bore after every few hundred rounds...... ish just for maintenance ( not chasing accuracy issues) and I've used Autosol in the past which has been great and left the bore looking very smooth and clean. 15 - 20 patches on a jag pushed down only, followed by dry patches and then a wash out worked really well.

I check the bore before and after each stage with a Hawkeye borescope, so my results are real.

I thought I'd try the gear specifically designed for barrels and so I purchased the above mentioned JB products. The instructions say to bring the patch forwards and backwards in the throat area to clean out the excessive carbon build up.
The "Bore bright" instructions say to use a patch on an undersized brush. I wasn't game to do that and just used the patch on jag.

So far I've found that there's a lot more working involved with the JB V's the Autosol and honestly, the results don't look any smoother or cleaner than that of the Autsol.

Does anyone that uses JB have any advice that might enhance my JB experience?

Thank you,

[Cameron Mc]

G day Denis
I use JB about every 200 rds. Only at chamber end for about 3".
I don't use the "bright" JB. This will polish the bore to a mirror finish which is not good.
I make my own jags from brass. The parkerhale versions are oval in shape with the patch.
Cheers
Cam

[G.COSTA]

I have used it for about 12-18 months or so...

I give the bore a few wet patches of hopps9 then I get a .22 nylon brush and wrap it in that cut off the roll patching (nylon + undersized I figure that if it somehow makes contact with bore will not damage) then put a little hops and jb on the patch and work first 3" and last 3" of barrel about a 30 seconds each then a few full length barrel strokes to clean up everything in between
Then to patch out I use a jag with the inch by inch pre cuts.. 3-4 hops, few dry then a metho patch and what ever oil I have convinced my self is the best that week lol... Just have to make sure every last bit is out!!!.. Then I use a .410cal mop in the chamber (nice fit for a .308 and a .284) with a LITTLE WD40 to lap up anything that may be in there...

Then I go out an after one shot its dirty again lol..at the end of the day does it work? Is it better then anyone else's way? Does it work better then any other past out there? Who knows.. In my head it makes my rifle shoot better and if mind over matter gains me points why stop a good thing?

[DenisA]

Hi Cam,

I like your advice about only doing 3" in front of the chamber and I don't like the theory of going to a mirror finish either. Sounds to me like that would promote galling.

Cam, what do you do with your jags that makes them preferable, just the material?

You don't use a patch wrapped brush at all?

Thanks.

George, thanks also. I do use mops to make sure there's nothing in the chamber afterwards too.

The only reason that I do this every few hundred rounds is to keep the build up from getting to thick and difficult to control. At this stage, I like the Autosol better.

I only use a boretech jag with the circular patches. Do you guys think that I should be using a nylon brush with patches cut from a roll?

[Cameron Mc]

Hi Cam,

I like your advice about only doing 3" in front of the chamber and I don't like the theory of going to a mirror finish either. Sounds to me like that would promote galling.

Cam, what do you do with your jags that makes them preferable, just the material?

You don't use a patch wrapped brush at all?

Thanks.
...............

Denis
I have made a few jags from brass rod.
Small machined grooves cylindrical and longitudinal, if that makes sense. The patch then forms a much more circular shape to work on a greater percentage of the bore.
Parkerhale jags work, but less of the bore surface is in contact due to the oval shape.
I don't use brushes wrapped with patches. I only use stiff nylon brushes now. Bronze brushes are attacked by solvent, wear rapidly and tend to leave bronze hairs in places that can cause problems...triggers, chambers etc.
I cut my own patches from flannel material. Cheaper and you make your own size.
Cheers

[Brad Y]

From my readings on here I also found out that JB is an essential part of restoring cooking pots. Aint that right Cam

[Cameron Mc]

From my readings on here I also found out that JB is an essential part of restoring cooking pots. Aint that right Cam

Totally right Brad. It sure works, but with elbow grease

[G.COSTA]

Yeah Denis, i keep doing more rather then lass as it keeps on top of things to make it less work in the long run.
I use to do it like you with the jag and round patch but if I came like just 1mm out the end it would come off the jag or doing the chamber end it would come off some times and the wrapped brush just fit right and follows my rifling so I know it's not binding up and rubbing straight and scoring the barrel and creating groves

[AlanF]

...I only use stiff nylon brushes now...

That's interesting Cam. Are they good enough for powder fouling? And do you pull them back into the muzzle?

[Cameron Mc]

...I only use stiff nylon brushes now...

That's interesting Cam. Are they good enough for powder fouling? And do you pull them back into the muzzle?

G day Alan

I feel the ones I use are stiff enough. Brands are Iosso and Clean Bore. I pull them back into the muzzle without worry. I have always made sure the rod turns with the rifling.
We all have our own cleaning technique and at the end of the day it is what happens at the target that matters most. I like to let the solvent do most of the work then use the brush to remove most of the carbon.
There will always be some stubborn carbon remaining but it should be minimal. That is why after 200 rds I find it necessary to use JB paste to clean out any build up. I am talking about quality barrels here by the way.
My 7mm Kriegers take about 15 shots to group after JB treatment and my Bartleins around 5 shots. The "fouling shots", I believe, is laying down a small amount of carbon..... then the process starts again

I like to compare barrels with racing tyres. It won't matter how well you look after them, they will eventually "go off". But, you must look after them to get optimum performance during this period.

Cheers

[AlanF]

Thanks Cam. I'll give it a go with the new Bart. The Sinclair bristles are very stiff and I have plenty of them. I use Iosso as a paste for the throat. It seems to leave the bore about the same sheen as a new bore.

Have you got your Bartleins going?

[Cameron Mc]

Thanks Cam. I'll give it a go with the new Bart. The Sinclair bristles are very stiff and I have plenty of them. I use Iosso as a paste for the throat. It seems to leave the bore about the same sheen as a new bore.

Have you got your Bartleins going?

Al, very impressed with the Bartleins. Shoot better than I can
In saying that, their characteristics are very similar to the Kriegers I have used for quite some time now.
Craig will give me a good discount for the next Bartlein I guess

[Frank Green]

I'm o.k. with the JB Bore Compound and use it from time to time (say around every 200-300 rounds and mostly in the throat area as described earlier) but not the Bore Brite.

Same goes with Iosso. I won't use it. I feel the Iosso and the Bore Brite have the same effect that it's polishing the bore smoother and smoother and you are removing metal. This can lead to a copper fouling situation which will/can have a negative effect on the accuracy. If the copper is building up and causing an accuracy problem it will start to show it's ugly face in about 15-20 rounds fired from a clean barrel.

Use no brushes with the paste cleaners.

The general feeling is once you start using a paste cleaner like Iosso and the Bore Brite your stuck using it.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

P.S. Thanks for buying the sticks!

[DenisA]

Cam, George and Frank, thank you very much for your advice. I'll put the bore bright on the back shelf and use it to polish a door handle or something.

[Longranger]

I love my new Bartlein barrel and as yet haven't found any need to use any form of abrasive paste to remove carbon. Conventional Parker Hale jags, solvents and 4x2 patches are doing the job well enough by inspection. I'm using a 308 so it is less inclined to carbon foul using BM8208 than say some other slower powders.

I find that it cleans up well without scouring it out with abrasive paste. I see one of our club members using Autosol on a regular basis and can't help but think that he is shortening barrel life substantially using the stuff.....